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Thread: The Canary: Drivers window removal / felts

  1. #1
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    The Canary: Drivers window removal / felts

    The drivers side window in my 1969 911T was not operating smoothly and the activator would slip toward the top. I'm concerned that the teeth on the activator mech are worn and I need a new one. Could it also be the window felts which are terribly frayed that would cause the window to be misaligned and cause the issue?

    I started taking the door apart, I got the pockets / panels off, window frame out and the felts are beyond perished. I'm having trouble getting the glass and activator out in one piece. I imagine you need to remove the glass first?

    Should I replace the felts and put everything back together and see if that fixes things first? Or bite the bullet and remove the glass and all?

    Looks like the old felts were glued in? Do I glue the replacements and if so what glue do I use?


    Cheers

    -Kav

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  2. #2
    #2264 classic's Avatar
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    Kav,

    Have someone guide the glass as you remove it from the arm, it will need to be wound up to about half way, so you have enough room to slid it backwards. If you have a mirror stick it behind the base of the window and you'll see the point the rollers have to go to free the window.

    Then drop the regulator, and pull it out the large hole at the bottom of the door. There's a couple of hidden bolts behind the door, the hold a bracket that needs to come out.

    Problems with the window winding up, can be a number of things, hopefully your teeth are O.K.

    My guess is it's the regulator spring. The mounting for the spring snaps after years of use, allowing the spring to be loose. It's designed to help you wind the window up, that last bit.

    http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...INTPNL_pg2.htm

    As you can see there are a couple of different ends, so you need to have a good look at what you have, as they changed through the years. Take note of how the spring is mounted, and the direction it's wound, as if you reverse it, it won't work as intended.

    Replace your felt channel. By the looks of the photo, you have the hard channel at the back ( metal in the felt )? You can get the same, but the soft channel is just as good.

    As they say in the manuals, refitting it is the reverse, of what you just did. Except for two things;

    1. The frame need to be done up in a specific order, as to follow the contor of the car, otherwise it will restrict the windows motion, and won't line up with the rear quarter window frame, or give you a descent seal, around the door ( not that it's that good in the first place) I can try and get a scan of the order that you do the frame up for you if that helps.

    2. When you remove the regulator, you'll see at the point where the rail meets the lifting mechanisium, a big nut (soak it whilst you've got it out, so it's easy to undo) it allows the window to level, as it rises. After you refit every thing, you need to loosen it, and wind your window up and down, so it levels itself to the frame. Once your happy just do it up.

    Long winded sooty, but I hope that it helps.
    Tony

  3. #3
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    Thanks so much Tony.

    I found the slots on the window rail and slid the glass out. I found the spring in the bottom of the door. The mount had indeed snapped but the teeth look worn, I think I need a new regulator. The order of the frame bolts would be great!

    Thanks for the advice! I'm a newbie at all this but loving it!

    Cheers

    -Kav

  4. #4
    #2264 classic's Avatar
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    Hope this helps.....
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Tony

  5. #5
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    Great!

    As for the window felts, I have the soft kind. Do they get glued in place and if so with what type of glue? Or do they friction fit the channel?

    Cheers.

    -Kav
    Last edited by kav; 07-20-2014 at 12:08 PM.

  6. #6
    #2264 classic's Avatar
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    I put the soft felt/channel in MY69er and didn't use any glue, and they've held up for 2 years.

    If you descide to go with glue, I'm a fan of the wurth contact rubber cement, but any good rubber glue (3m etc.)

    Get some wax and grease remover at the same time ( removes any excess glue ).

    If/when you get a used regulator, replace the spring retainer. They all fail, and when they do the first sign is problems winding up the window, but by that time the teeth in the regulator are usually toast.
    Tony

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by classic View Post
    Kav,

    Have someone guide the glass as you remove it from the arm, it will need to be wound up to about half way, so you have enough room to slid it backwards. If you have a mirror stick it behind the base of the window and you'll see the point the rollers have to go to free the window.

    Then drop the regulator, and pull it out the large hole at the bottom of the door. There's a couple of hidden bolts behind the door, the hold a bracket that needs to come out.

    Problems with the window winding up, can be a number of things, hopefully your teeth are O.K.

    My guess is it's the regulator spring. The mounting for the spring snaps after years of use, allowing the spring to be loose. It's designed to help you wind the window up, that last bit.

    http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...INTPNL_pg2.htm

    As you can see there are a couple of different ends, so you need to have a good look at what you have, as they changed through the years. Take note of how the spring is mounted, and the direction it's wound, as if you reverse it, it won't work as intended.

    Replace your felt channel. By the looks of the photo, you have the hard channel at the back ( metal in the felt )? You can get the same, but the soft channel is just as good.

    As they say in the manuals, refitting it is the reverse, of what you just did. Except for two things;

    1. The frame need to be done up in a specific order, as to follow the contor of the car, otherwise it will restrict the windows motion, and won't line up with the rear quarter window frame, or give you a descent seal, around the door ( not that it's that good in the first place) I can try and get a scan of the order that you do the frame up for you if that helps.

    2. When you remove the regulator, you'll see at the point where the rail meets the lifting mechanisium, a big nut (soak it whilst you've got it out, so it's easy to undo) it allows the window to level, as it rises. After you refit every thing, you need to loosen it, and wind your window up and down, so it levels itself to the frame. Once your happy just do it up.

    Long winded sooty, but I hope that it helps.
    Tony

    Where do you find the window channel with metal included like original?
    Clyde Boyer





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  8. #8
    #2264 classic's Avatar
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    Clyde, Stoddards has the hard and soft

    http://www.stoddard.com/911-1965-75/...42-902-26.html
    Tony

  9. #9
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    I got a replacement regulator from John (thanks again!) the spring retainer looks like it could do with replacing but is the spring in the correct orientation? This is a drivers side (left).

    Cheers.

    -Kav
    Attachment 299470

  10. #10
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    Another question, how do I remove the spring retainer from the regulator?

    -Kav.

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