Rusty belly pans / weber carbs

[Bob Schaefer]

I'm new to early 911's (I had a couple of 1980's Porsches),
so I need some guidance. Please bear with me on some
questions that have probably been answered before. I'm
seriouisly looking for an early 'S'.

What's your opinion of the belly pan rust seen on the white
1973 RS on European Collectable's site? Is is just minor, or
is it 'just the tip of the iceberg'.

What is the effect on value to an early 'S' that has had part /
some / most of its pan replaced? Is it possible to replace
parts of a rusty pan well enough that it doesn't affect the
integrity of the chassis and therefore the value of the car?
As with anything, I imagine the quality of work varies
drastically from one shop to another.....

How frequently do the Webers on a '67 need tuning? What's
usually involved? Can the shadetree mechanic do it at home
with the right tools?

Thanks, Bob S.

[Wolf Knierim]

About your 67 weber carb adjustments, I found the process fairly simple by following the manual's procedure. I used the float level indicator and the air synchrometer, both tools readily available. Once set, I see no reason why they would need to be reset. Only if you move to a higher elevation, or to compensate for throttle shaft wear. Most problems I have found with my carbs has been caused by dirt. The passages in the carb are extremely small. One grain of sand lodged in the wrong place can cause problems. The idle jets easily screw out without disassembling the carb. This is usually the first place a piece of grit will lodge itself. I have had to check these jets after developing a drivability problem, and low and behold there is a tiny piece of something lodged in the tiny hole. Hope this helps.

[JCR]

Wow, the prices of the two RSes at Euro Collectibles are dropping rapidly. Now at $58k (white) and $55k (yellow). A bit surprised they aren't moving at these prices. What's up?

Bob, as far as the rust spots go, It's hard to say for sure but I would not be too concerned with what I see in photos. At least it wouldn't stop me from investing in an inspection. AND DON"T EVEN THINK ABOUT BUYING AN EARLY 911 WITHOUT AN INSPECTION. I would advise staying away from Porsche dealers as most of their mechanics are not early fluent (there are exceptions of course). I would take an RS to a specialist who knows the specifics of that model, especially with a (real) RSL (which this is not).

As this car was repainted, I would also have an experienced body person look for signs of rust or accident repairs. Belly spots may be easily treatable surface rust - no undercoating so easy to evaluate on a lift.

Nice of the shop to list so many photos, too bad more don't do this. I would start by calling them and asking detailed questions about your concerns. When discussing detail condition, sometimes a 1 to 10 scale answer is more insightful than a "not too bad" answer. This car has been for sale for quite a while, the price seems very reasonable. Other than the fact that it's a LW wannabee, does anyone know why it 'aint movin? What's the scoop - has anyone inspected it??

Just curious.

[Bob Schaefer]

Jared / Wolf -

Thanks for the input.

All I know is that I'm gonna buy something - after I make sure it's rustfree and is what I want. I'm looking for something pretty original right now, but eventually I also want a hotrod.

Jared, I'm thinking the same thing about the 2 RS's at European Collectables......the prices are getting attractive. I was also dreaming about the yellow car, having the engine rebuilt as a 2.7 and then using the left over 2.9 l parts for my hotrod.....

Later