Fuse Block Replacement

[HarryD]

Gee, you go do a little project on your car and, like clockwork, you end up with two more....

I was installing relays for my headlamps and in the process of attaching wires to my fuse block, I broke the block. I ordered a replacement block from Parts Heaven (great service-BTW).

My question-There are two (sheet metal?) screws holding the fuse block to the car. I am concerned that I will need to remove a subassembly (like what we have for the CDI Box in the engine compartment) to get the fuse block replaced. Is there a removable nut behind the screw holding it to the car or are the screws attached to the body of the car and I can remove just the fuse block? Looking at the PET it appears that I may have sheet metal screws that go into speed nuts attached to the car body. I wanted to verify this before I "dove in".

TIA

[Bobby Smith]

Harry,
Let me know if you have a problem getting the fuse block. I have a perfect unit. $60.
Bobby Smith
Member #299
porsche911dude@aol.com

[HarryD]

Bobby,

Thanks for the offer but I already have one.

[kenikh]

What happened? Which relay did you use: the Marcus Sucro generic relay or the Bosch based Daniel Stern relays? I just bought the Sucro relay (cheaper) and want to make sure I don't repeat your mistakes.

[HarryD]

Kenikh,

I used Bosch relays from Daniel Stern. FWIW, this kit also included 20 amp inline fuses and fuse holders, the crimp connectors you need, and a very nice replacement sockets for the headlamps. While overkill, I used 12 ga wire for the new runs to the headlamps.

My "mistake" was, when I was attaching a wire from the #1 fuse position to the coil side of the relay, to press too hard on the screw in the fuse block to cause the corner to crack off. Just be gentle.

[kenikh]

Super cool; I will end up going with Stern relays later, as I am installing Cibies and driving lights as well. I'll probably use the Sucro unit for the driving lights and the Stern units for the Cibies and 100/130 H4s. Thanks for the advice.

[HarryD]

Kenik,

I am not sure but if your car is like mine, you have separate fuses for both each headlamp hi beam and low beam. These circuits are used for the coil side of your relays. Since you have one relay for high beams and one for low beams, you will end up with an extra spot for both types of lighting to control something else that can be activated the same time as your high or low beams.

[kenikh]

Interesting. I need to research this more.

The plan is to get the driving lights and Cibies to engage on high beam/flasher and have the under bumper fogs (not yet purchased) on the stock dash mounted switch. I was thinking it would be extremely cool to engage the under bumper fogs when hitting the high beams, as well. I wonder if you can run these lights on two separate circuits...

[HarryD]

Interesting. I need to research this more.

The plan is to get the driving lights and Cibies to engage on high beam/flasher and have the under bumper fogs (not yet purchased) on the stock dash mounted switch. I was thinking it would be extremely cool to engage the under bumper fogs when hitting the high beams, as well. I wonder if you can run these lights on two separate circuits...

Kenik,

FYI: In my car (a 1973) Fuses 1 and 2 are for the high beams, Fuses 3 and 4 are for the Low beams and Fuse 8 is for the Fogs.

I used Fuse #1 to operate the coil on my hi beam relay, and Fuse #3 to operate the coil on my low beam relay.

You could use Fuse #2 to activate another relay that will operate the driving lights and Cibies. If it was me, I would put a dash mounted switch in the coil side circuit on and off to control these lamps.

For your fogs, I would use Fuse #8 to power yet another relay coil to operate the fogs. Again, I would run the power for the fog relay coil through a dashboard switch to allow me to control when it is on.

Here's a way to wire it all.

[kenikh]

This is very, very useful. Thanks!