Removing tank, leaking battery

[Zithlord]

When removing the gas tank, is there anything else that holds the tank in place exept for the tree clamps inside the trunk and the hoses? On the driver side there has been a leak from the old battery and even if there is just visible surface rust I want to remove the tank and clean things up.

There are a couple of round holes that goes into the front suspension pan so if water gets into the trunk it goes either straight out the holes in the bottom of the trunk or via the pan, where there is also two holes seen from under the car. Because of the battery leak I would like to flush out this area, either with lots of water or something to neutralise the acid from the battery. Any suggestions? I did flush some water through the hole in the picture and after about 10 liters the water still had a sour taste to it, so I guess there still is some acid in there somewhere.


John

[bobmagyar]

The tank is often stuck in with the seal. Rock the tank back and forth should start to get the seal to separate. Or get underneath and thump it with your fist.

[Sacto S]

Filler neck obviously. Removing the rubber sleeve gives you plenty of wiggle room to get the tank out.

Wash the whole area down with a solution of water and baking soda to take care of any acid residue. Use a soft bristle brush to really work the solution into all the cracks, pits and holes then flusk with water. Be sure to hose off the bootm of the car when you're finished in case any of the acid residue collected on any of those surfaces.

[jcarpio]

John,

I just went throught this a couple of weeks ago. Try using a mixture of water and baking soda to neutralize the acid, lots of it!

Good luck,

Jorge

[Zithlord]

I managed to carefully pry the tank loose, it was stuck in the old seal, just like you said Bobmagyar.

Now I will flush with BS an water, than get rid of the rust. What mix of BS and water would you use?

If using metalprep , do you rinse the residue from the metal prep before using por-15 or primer. I am afraid the paint wont stick if the residue from the metalprep is still on the bare metal? I read at the POR-15 site that one should rinse with water, but I tried that once and flash rust appered at an instant.

john

[jcarpio]

Not sure on the BS and water mixture, as I only used a bit. Rinse off the Metal Prep with water and don't worry about the surface rust as POR-15 will stick to the rust nicely.

[Sacto S]

The soda is used to neutralize any acid residue that may remain. I've never know of any set mixture to use. I used about a quarter cup to half a gallon of water and scrubbed with a soft brush. If you see any foaming, that is the soda reacting with leftover acid. Give those areas a second round.

The POR 15 metal prep is great stuff I used that after the soda treatment then topped it off with POR15 and a top coat of black paint. POR 15 will turn gray in any areas exposed to UV. At leasst that's what the can says.

I may have done a little overkill but, I figured I was only going to do this once.

[Zithlord]

The fuel tank is ready to be liftet out and I have removed the emissions breather hose, filler hose and the wiring.

How do I get access to the fuel lines in the back of the tank? There is a coverplate under the suspension and steering, must that plate of to get access? It seems the bolts that hold this plate also holds parts of the steering or suspension?

I just do not want to mess anything up.

John

[kaufmanp]

generally "mask off" area to be treated first, remove old paint and stone guard with paint stripper neutralize with water and completely dry out, then use old wire brush or similar and where areas are 'pitted' use broken drill bit to "pick" corrosion out of pit holes.then use phosphoric acid to temporary stop oxidation process.metal should be clinically clean by now and very shiny.prime with 2k primer,seam seal appropriate seams,prior to spraying stone guard and then final color.

always read and follow manufactures recommendations for products used.

this is what the so called top 'resto shops" would do,if undertaking such a repair typically from my experiences.


-----------------------
peter kaufmann
'73 911e fully rebuilt to 2.7rs carrera specs.

[ttweed]

How do I get access to the fuel lines in the back of the tank? There is a coverplate under the suspension and steering, must that plate of to get access? It seems the bolts that hold this plate also holds parts of the steering or suspension?

Yes, that pan is removed to access the back of the tank where the fuel hose connections are, as well as the steering rack, etc. Two of the bolts for the pan also fasten longitudinal braces that come aft from the front crossmember to the tub.

TT