swb alignment question.

[tennster]

Hi,
i am getting an alignment done this week, my car is 1966 i have 21/27 tortion bar, koni classic (red) set to hard and adjustable sway bar front and rear. deep six 205/55 all around. Car is for street and some track use.
would this setting work? (i got this from the other thread)

Front
Camber
1 degrees negative +/- 10 minutes

Difference right to left 10 minutes

Caster
6 degrees 5 minutes +/- 15 minutes
difference right to left 30 minutes (?) my notes are not the best

Toe in
+15 minutes +/- 5 minutes with wheels

Rear
Camber
2 degree negative +/- 10 minutes
difference right to left 20 minutes

Toe in
+15 minutes
difference left to right 20 minutes

thanks
tenn

[ttweed]

Does your '66 have stock front suspension? What is the VIN? I just ask because the factory repair manual states in the wheel alignment section:
"Caster and camber cannot be adjusted on vehicles up to chassis serial number 302.694, as well as on Chassis Nr. 302.736 and 302.805." If you have stock front struts, you may have to work a bit to achieve your desired settings. See this earlier thread.

As far as your proposed settings, you don't mention the tire type you are using, but if you are running the modern DOT R-compounds for the track, most of them want a minimum of 2 degrees negative camber, and some do better with more. If you can dial in more camber in the front, I would try that and then take tire temps to see how they're working.

You definitely want some toe-in on the rear, but if you are running short tracks, your turn-in response may be improved with 0 toe in the front. For autox, I actually run a little toe-out. For high-speed tracks, some toe-in on the front will help with stability.

My $.02, and worth everything you paid for it,
TT

[Bobs 67S]

tennster, the target numbers look good.

There is a big assumption that by track you are talking about medium to high speed tracks - like Mid-Ohio and Road America. Lower speed setting would be as per (TT) Tom's good advise.

After 1968 the front tow-in was set to 0 and with wider tires this is also a good target for the 1965-67. Those are the setting for a pre-load (slight pressure at the front of the rim pressing out - supposedly a simulation of the car under hard braking - taking up any slack in the ball joints and tie rods).

(The Hunter alignment racks give settings in .000" so be ready to hear settings in thousands rather than degrees-minutes).

You might want to try the softest setting on the front shocks. And, almost the softest settings for the rears. Koni's at Full hard will give a overly-hard jarring ride (as in wearing out the seat springs). For track duty try the front: 1/2 turn from full soft, rear: 1/2 turn from full hard.

Sways (if they are 19mm adjustables): Front: start with 1/2 hard, adjust as needed. Rear: 1/3 hard, adjust as needed. If you are using 16mm rears start at 2/3 hard.

Hope this helps.

[tennster]

Tom,
thanks! the best 2c i have ever spent pay pal is on the way!
my car started as 912 vin. 352143
it does have later front suspension from sc
i am using bridge stone RE001
most of the track here are pretty short and tight turn.
i knowtice in your sig that your car is slate gray gotta love slate gray

bob,
thanks for the info. will definitely try the shock setting. now i have it medium and it's feel a little wobbly at higher speed so this might be the answer for it.

thanks again guys
cheers
tenn
*not a great picture but look like i have the none adjustable front one?

[Bobs 67S]

Cool car. Those three mounting bolts at each shock tower should give a ton of Camber and Caster adjustment. Nice looking car.