I always find it useful to spend extra time making sure that the edges get good varnish coverage to keep moisture from wicking up between the laminations.
John, #332
73 S with sporto and 69 912 now out of rehab
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I always find it useful to spend extra time making sure that the edges get good varnish coverage to keep moisture from wicking up between the laminations.
John, #332
73 S with sporto and 69 912 now out of rehab
Nice job...I like detail stuff like that.
The Finnish birch plywood weighs less than perforated aluminum. The Factory knew what they were doing.
Just got done doing a similar thing to my Sporto Targa pedal board. That is an all but extinct part.
Is that a SWB sporto board?Quote:
Originally Posted by jt912
beautiful work
It is a '68 911 (US) soft window Targa pedal board. I've got a nice non-Targa board that I was thinking of cutting down to match the Targa but 1: it is just a bit differently shaped and 2: I couldn't bring myself to do it. So a sheet of veneer and two weeks of gluing and clamping later I was reasonably satisfied with the results.
That's great Bob, thanks for shareing i need to do the same when i get to the interior on my resto.
RHD wooden boards are near impossible to find.
I thought I wrote this on this thread, but it disappeared. If this is redundant, disregard.
I suggest applying several coats of clear urethane to the floorboard. This reduces the chance of the wood absorbing moisture and delaminating. I also applied urethane to some aftermarket door panels that used Luan plywood as the base structure.
Sherwood
Inspired by this thread, I tackled this too! Mine needed too much bondo to make stain practical, so flat black it is.