magnesium vs. aluminum case accounts for the bulk of it.
Printable View
magnesium vs. aluminum case accounts for the bulk of it.
After driving Schmidts 2.2S before and after gears (A,E,I,N,S) I finally understood what short gears do for performance, and fun. On the small engines, it just makes a different car. The photo is of the transmission Gordon Ledbetter just finished for my '67S. I bought the last NOS aluminum 901 case Gary Emory had, and put in A,F,J,O,S. This is airport with the exception of first. My fourth is now fifth so she's no longer a highway cruiser, but that's okay.
Kenikh, Since your box already needs an overhaul, I'd consider gearing that thing now, and have some fun while saving up $20K or more for a special motor.
You read my mind, Tom. The box is going to Bernie in September after the summer season ends, so he told me to plan now on what I want to do. Wanna hear something else that's beautiful? My car is an early enough '69S that it still has an aluminum 901 case, numbers matching, of course.Quote:
Originally Posted by tfiv
BTW, are those the gears you ran to Sonoma?
Kenik,
That's a good question ...
If I remember, the Gulf car's documentation is very elaborate without being very specific ...
Sherwood,
I think the car is just under 2100 lbs.
Ed,
I to have had the privilege of driving them both ... and I think the experiences were equal for VERY different reasons.... ;)
Cheers,
Kenik, right on! No, the original 901/02 was, and still is in the car (not for long). Since I will be turning about 4700 at 75MPH and hitting the rev limiter at 115, 8 hour I 5 trips aren't in the plan. I'm going to put more reasonable gearing in my larger displacement hot rod. Between this site: http://www.geocities.com/z_design_st...n_993_bit.html and the gear chart on Rennlist, you will be able to squander hours of your employer's time geeking out on potential gear set ups.
What's the type number on your box?
Kenik I agree that the early cases are cool looking. However, if you are eventually going to put a big motor behind it and you want a limited slip, they present some problems. You have to use the 904 style slip which is very hard to find. You also then have to use the unique drive flanges etc. Anyway, you might want to find a mag case core for your special box, and set the original on the shelf. - TomQuote:
Originally Posted by kenikh
Hello: The 906 cams are not the way to go on a street car. If you think the S cams are too mild then try some modern grinds that work better than the S cams and are more streetable. I would do shorter gears for sure. I tell everyone that if want more drivable power get the right gears. For every $100 in gears it will cost you $1000's in engine work. I would also use 40 ida's or mfi on a 2.0 street car or better still efi. I used to run a 2.0 engine with twin plugs,906 pistons,911 biral cylinders,aluminum case,large valve heads ported, and modified S cams. This engine would pull away from 906 type engines unless it was a long straight on the track but by then the next corner came up and I was gone. Gears for a street driven car try A,F,N,S,X. These are easy gears to find. I would also build up another gearbox and keep your stock one for a spare. You can never have too many spare tranny's. If you need gears or boxs I have some and also some 2.0 race stuff. My favorite street engine for an early car is a short stroke 3.2 with a short gearbox and 7x15 rear wheels. This is alot of fun to drive and very fast! Thanks Eric
Eric, please send me a note with the 901 gears you have that you'd be willing to part with...
You actually hit on my next point: I want 906 top end with the faster ramps and subsequent better drivability of a modern cam. I figured the 906 was the perfect baseline; everything newer would be gravy in the drivability department.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric911S
BTW, if you guys want some serious 901 gear crack, try the enclosed and zipped Excel spreadsheet out.