Thanks, folks! I'm going to call it close enough to keep. That means I can sell the green-dot jack I have.
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Thanks, folks! I'm going to call it close enough to keep. That means I can sell the green-dot jack I have.
Still progressing...
Sample card with a test spray out of the silver to verify color tone and metallic flake size and density.
Attachment 507062
In light of the failed experiment with aftermarket tail light housings (Product Review - Sierra Madre (Dansk?) Lightweight Taillight Assembly Set), I've worked to refurbish the factory housings.
Besides the poor state of the inside 'chrome' finish, the light sockets were so loose that bulbs did not ground consistently. So I needed both cosmetic and functional repair.
Repairing the sockets was a 3-stage process. First I used a small brass brush on my Dremel to clean the sockets. I then pulled the base terminals up to try to slightly increase the spring tension. Lastly, I used a couple small strips of adhesive aluminum tape (like you'd use to seal furnace ducting) to fill the gaps around the base of the bulbs. I put 2 small strips in each socket, locating each between the channels where the pins on the bulbs go. These efforts tightened the bulbs nicely, and testing each light while violently shaking the housings worked perfectly.
For the cosmetic part, after a thorough cleaning inside, I masked off the now-working sockets and painted the inside with a bright silver paint. It's not as mirror-like as the original, but it is bright and should work fine. Especially since the LED brake/tail lights I use don't need the reflector inside at all.
Attachment 507332
Are you sure the aluminum won't cause corrosion with any copper bits in the base or in the wiring?
The aluminum doesn't extend that far in. It only contacts the die-cast housing and the side of the bulb base. Won't touch any copper bits.
WOW! That jack sure cleaned up nice, glad I was able to help and and great purchase by you:)
First sign of color on the car itself. Door jambs, slam panels and edges of both front and rear openings. Back/under sides of doors, lids, bumpers and bits later today. Planning for final sealer and paint on the car for next week!
Attachment 507791
Attachment 507792
Uhoh,,,they unbolted the hinges instead of pulling the pins.
Yeah, we discussed pulling the pins before the job began. Shop owner is aware of the flub and realigning of doors will be required. Probably not a totally bad thing, as while the door gaps and shut lines looked pretty good, the driver's door was not 100% up to snuff.
Do it now and paint with the hinges on so the bolts and hinges are painted on the car like the factory did it. Easy to fix now.