Yes, you can get them for the A arms, camber plates, trailing arms and spring plates. It's in the drop down menu or just call Chuck on Monday.Quote:
Originally Posted by hoffman912
Yes, you can get them for the A arms, camber plates, trailing arms and spring plates. It's in the drop down menu or just call Chuck on Monday.Quote:
Originally Posted by hoffman912
John :
i raced since i was 14 (now i'm 41) and won something here and there.
I race with a GT3-R now.
I have a 964RS N-GT spec for road use ( i have had some others modern 911... too MERCEDES riding style for me... )
NOW
I think to have some experience about the term "to drive" and "to race".....
And i repeat to you: THE BEST way to make your suspension stuff well working is to have a rigid and stiff chassis .( I'm an addicted of strengthened chassis: i seam-welded ALL the chassis of my 68S, with at least 16 reinforcement plates. Here you are a little example...:)
Attachment 212901
The problem is that nobody work hard on their suspension, diameters of sway bars and torsion bars, weight, angles, etc...
I don't want to change your opinion, but please don't treat me like a rookie.
Happy Easter to you too!
;)
I, too, found an improvement in ride after installing larger TBs and polybronze, with low friction mounts, and monoballs in the trailing arms. Bars were 21/27. Funny thing, but cars ride better when suspension pivots actually pivot! Sure, medium sized bumps were more firm with the new stuff, but little stuff was better addressed by the modified components (seemingly) because of the freedom of the suspension components to rotate. Also, my front suspension bottomed on occasion with the stock set up, but not with the bigger TBs. There is not much more uncomfortable than suspension bottoming!
I just don't understand the statement that polybronze are not a good fit for road use, unless you are put off by hitting the bushings with a grease gun every 3K miles.
I don't want to mess with a grease routine and worry about grit getting in there or them running dry, that is why I went with Rebel Racing bushings. I would have done rubber otherwise.
I know this is an older thread, but I'm looking for advice on the difference between the RR front control arm units and the Elephant "sphericals". Visually the units appear very, very similar... Can anyone comment?
Chuck saw the Rebel Racing bushings were superior so he decided to copy them but wanted to not be an exact copy so instead of using spherical washers to align the mounts he decided to do the more complicated route of using spherical bushings instead. Then he sells them for more.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishcop
In my opinion, without having used the ER parts, they should work just about the same. The bushings are from the same company.
Here is another data point for thought. The 356 front suspension uses no rubber bushings at all. There are rubber bushings for the stabilizer bar and the shock attachment only. The trailing arms are needle bearings and plain bearings. The steering knuckles are all plain bronze bushings. The steering control is all ball joints with only a fiber damper in the steering column and a conventional steering damper shock.
The 356 is renowned for its smooth suspension and ride characteristics. It is also renowned for its precise steering feel.
I believe the key to a smooth quiet suspension is compliance, no sticking or binding, and hard mounting. These qualities are not possible in the rear suspension due to the twisting of the spring plate.
SV
I've used both. The Rebel Racing stuff is good, and so is the Elephant stuff. It's six of one/half a dozen of the other.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishcop
For me, it's not just price ... it's customer service. Elephant Racing has been winning that war for a few years now. Chuck has always been spot on with information, parts support, parts availability, and after-purchase support. He's also a really nice guy.
I hear ya Marco, ta!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr9146
Old thread new question. Dumb one maybe. The car I am helping with is a 1971 Porsche 911T. However the Elephant Racing videos all show the REAR of the two front bushings on each side as having a removable carrier for the torsion bar adjustment screw. This 1971 model has no such (apparently) removable carrier on the rear of the control arm or in the crossmember housing. How is this managed with their bushings? I wrote to ER, as we are thinking of getting their bushings, but did not hear back.