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I think they should NOT be touching, when resting.
See if you can bench test, and see the parts flip around and click.
Fusing is not the only thing, just common.
Touching means power is flowing, and should not be.
The electomagnet pulls them together to contact.
A spring should pull them apart.
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So neither contact should be touching? From what it looks like, the metal plate has a spring attached to the back and it seems to pivot in the middle. The two contacts are offset; one up and one down. So the spring seems to pivot the plate up in its state of rest causing the outer most contact to touch. I'll have to bench test it but both of the relays seem to function this way.
Chris
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yes, the contact touches one side. the one the spring pulls it into.
bench test with 12v will see if it overcomes the spring...and clicks to the magnetic side.
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So I bench tested the relay's and they both overcome the spring and click.
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I think you relays are fine. Pretty sure it rules those out.
I think it can now only be the lever/switch on the colume.
With a 12v test light find a red wire leaving that switch.
See if it has power, it shouldn't, until you throw the lever.
Some little part in that switch has jostelled out of place.
They are hard to dismantle and understand, but that can be done.
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Perhaps I'm misreading the wiring diagram but isn't the red wire hot once the ignition is on? I interpret the diagram as the red wire is coming into the column hot and the blue, black/purple, black/yellow, gray and black should not be hot unless switched. Correct?
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Yes, just see what is hot on the backside of the switch.
There are most likely some that shouldn't be.
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So I got an opportunity to test the switch. With the switch removed from the steering column and the wires still connected to the fire wall as well as the ground, I tested such...
With both relays removed, ignition on, I had 12v only at the red wire. All others had power. I then connected the relays, ignition on, I got 12 v across almost all the wires. So I don't think its the switch. Also, I've seen some post about a capacitor mounted behind the clock. Even though the wiring diagram doesn't indicate one, my car does have one. I did disconnect the power wire and they wipers still ran.
So even though the relays seem to click on and off, could there be another bad component within the relay that is causing the relay to switch on? Or could there be a problem within the wiper motor?
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I didn't understand the middle paragraph.
On the backside of the lever/switch NO wire should be hot.
Until you move the switch.
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Sorry for the confusion. The only hot wire was the red. When I moved the level/switch to each position, the corresponding wire indicated power. And this was done with the relays removed. When the relays where added back, power was read at each of the positions without moving the switch from it's off position. It seams that power is being fed back to the switch from the relays.