-
The engine needs some induction intake system to run. I am using factory MFI throttle bodies and stacks with my EFI system. The system works, looks great, has excellent linkage geometry and can be modified.
The MFI TBs and stacks were bored to 38mm to match my heads. I did not do a full taper but rather a straight bore. My cams do not require n(th) degree tuning as I am not chasing HP numbers at high rpm but rather area under the curve.
The TBs were further modified with vacuum ports under the throttle plates. This will provide pressure signal for the MAP sensor and thus- engine load in speed density mode for the EFI.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1564158775.jpg
The Throttle bodies were base lined before installation. This means throttle stops were setup correctly, the linkage rods length adjusted so they snap on with no load, the idle control screws cleaned and set 2.5 turns out for first start.
At this point the MFI system is attached to the car. The cross-bar linkage is setup. Side bank rods are balanced for length. injector adapters are connected to the EFI injectors, air filter assembly is in place and finally...
It looks like a proper engine bay.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1564160462.jpg
It just needs some ignition wires... Soon.
-
I have also been working on the interior. The heat of the summer is the best time to install a headliner. The fabric is warm and easily stretches to remove wrinkles. So, 100 binder clips and some glue later, the headliner is in.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1564163213.jpg
Love a tight headliner. Its gotta have a near drum head feel when you thump it.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1564163213.jpg
Yes, I went back and trimmed the edges after installation.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1564163213.jpg
After the headliner I wrapped the A and B pillars. The B pillars were tricky. If you go back a bunch of pages you may recall I installed an integral roll bar with B pillar reinforcement. The extra width made the headliner interface quite tricky. I ended up with a slight defect where I cut too deep wrapping around the sharp edge. It's mostly covered with trim vinyl and hardly noticeable - but I know its there.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1564163213.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1564163213.jpg
The A pillar is straightforward. Just remember to mark the height of the holes for your VIN tag. Otherwise, I just stretch and glue along with a rolled inside edge at the top.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1564163213.jpg
Why work on the interior? The reason was that I wanted to start putting glass in the car. Can't do glass install without the headliner and trim first. So... there you go.
Actually, the reason I want glass installed is for the rear window. With the 911R hinges the decklid flips onto the rear window. Without glass it wants to fold into no-mans land and the hinges can't bend into the back seat. Why do I want the decklid installed? Because its taking up space and I have knocked it over 2X and chipped corner paint. It's safer on the car.
The glass had to get ready. Here is all the glass cleaned and ready for... Coatings. That's right I like coatings....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1564163213.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1564163213.jpg
What kind of coatings on the glass you might ask? I decided to get all the glass tinted with clear (90%) UV/IR ceramic film. Anything I can do to block heat in TX is beneficial to my driving comfort. Plus I am setting up for eventual AC system.
Slowly this car is coming together. One section at a time.
-
That is the current status. Will be another month or so before I can accomplish anything. August queued up for a bunch of work travel.
-
Looking really, really nice, Jamie. No less than we expect from you, sir. Keep going, we will be anxious to see your efforts in the fall.
-
Thanks for the updates- looking good!
-
thanks Bill. When are you back in Austin?
Chuck. How is your project coming along? Still planning?
-
Next its time to work on the plug connector end.
The early plug connectors have a "wood screw" in the terminal. This makes it very easy to assemble wires.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1564358142.jpg
First I plug the previously terminated wire end into the cap. The wires are then sized by routing them as needed and cutting to length.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1564358142.jpg
Once the wire is cut, simply screw the plug end into the plug wire. Voila!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1564358142.jpg
Now, only 11 more to go...
-
Still working on the ignition... First, The coils were mounted on my newly finished brackets. Yes, that worked out well. Sorta a focal point when you open the engine bay.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1564358059.jpg
Next it was on to build plug wires. To purchase a twin plug wire set would be currently out of my budget. So... I went digging in the parts bin and found a few old sets of wires to salvage parts. This included 12 Beru early style plug ends and 12 terminal boots for the distributor cap. Let's see how to put this all together with some new wires.
Wires come from an MSD wire set using the "universal" setup. This comes with a bag of terminals and 9 lengths of very nice 8mm spiral core wire. Its the wire that I was really after. It takes 2 boxes for a twin plug setup at about $45 each box. Yes, quite cost effective in this case.
The terminals are brass and not quite the right shape. They are designed for 90deg bend V8 applications. But I can fix that. I just cut them off and shorten to fit the 911 cap.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1564358059.jpg
Then I open them slightly to insert the wires.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1564358920.jpg
The tail of the spiral lead wire is folded back upon itself and inserted into the terminal.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1564358142.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1564358142.jpg
The wire is inserted to the edge of the terminal.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1564358142.jpg
The wire terminal is then crimped using the included MSD wiring crimp. Not bad when a universal kit comes with a tool to properly build the product.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1564358142.jpg
And the wire is crimped ready to insert in the cap.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1564358142.jpg
-
AFter you finish making plug wires you can sit back and try to figure out if a nest of rattlesnakes has invaded your engine bay. Wait... I am in TX and this really happens in the summer time.
Thankfully, in this case, its just a giant bundle of plug wires running everywhere.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1564371859.jpg
Oh, the coils are also wired up.
And so, this completes another milestone of the build. The engine bay is basically done.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1564371859.jpg
[really its never done. The distributor cap is not secured. I can't do that until I phase the rotor during the initial EFI setup. Also vacuum lines are not run and one vent hose is missing. Crap, the list just keeps getting longer]
-
Part of the process of assembling the car is getting out a bunch of parts from storage, sorting them and then leaving them available to put on the car. This means i have way too much stuff in the garage and it gets tight to move around. So... Its time to assemble some of the larger items and get them on the car.
In my previous post I described getting my glass coated with a UV and IR limiting clear film. There are a few reasons for this. First, I want to keep out as much heat as possible. Then while cleaning the glass I found out the car had a mixture of green and clear glass. Great. It's a misfit so what do I do. As it turns out, My local tint shop had a clear film in both 90% and 80% transparency. After a few tests, the 80% tint is applied to the clear glass and the 90% tint applied to the green glass and now they are all the same color.
Now once they are coated I was concerned about scratching them. I might have had to sign a waiver to get them to coat the glass out of the car. They cover the cracking, peeling, etc. I cover the " I am not a DA and can install without scratching" part. You get the idea.
I bought a bunch of new seals with my Pelican Gift Certificate. This meant F/R and L/R quarter window seals, door channel felt, etc. It was a large lightweight box of rubber parts.
First, I put the front quarter window seals onto the glass and into the frames. The frames are really tight with new rubber seals. Don' think I will have any wind noise here. Then, I put the new channel felt into the frame. The door glass slides so easily in new felt. Definitely an upgrade here.
Here are the assembled Frames with seals and glass.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1565711948.jpg
And I needed a place to store the new frames and glass. I might as well drop them into the doors. Yes, they still fit. Good thing. I have to rebuild one of my regulators before I can full install the window frames.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1565709866.jpg
Since the front was done I had to move onto the rear quarter.
The glass to frame seals were again tight. I was concerned about stripping the M3 screws that hold the frame together so I used a ratchet strap to pull the frame tight and inserted the screws with basically no load. This worked quite well.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1565715374.jpg
Then I had to install the outer frame to body seal. These are always tight and difficult. My thumbs are still sore from popping the edges of the seal into the channel and holding it so it would not pop back out.
Of course, I had to slid them into position and take a pic. It is really starting to look like a car since the glass is installed.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1565711948.jpg
I have to install the quarter window trim before I can bolt down my pop-outs. Won't be long.
