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Thanks for the support. I am excited to get going on it.
I used Kwik strip from Lowes. it took quite a few coats to get soften the lacquer on the back side where the finder ribs are. I think the original finish pooled a little in the low spots and was quite a bit thicker. Whatever finish they originally used was very tough.
Nope, black strip was fine. It took probably 10 coats of stripper and a some scrubbing with Scotch pads to finally remove all the thick spots.
I asked a professional guitar builder what he uses and he recommended Mohawk so that is what I am going with. Figured if it was good for guitars it should be fine for my wheel.
AS for the center metal part I am going with Cerakote. I read quite a few posts about people sending their Porsche parts to get Cerakoted so I going with that. The Cerakote it quite expensive- about $140 a quart but I will used it on other parts as well so might as well bight the bullet. I purchased a detail paint gun to spray with.
I'm planning on sandblasting the center section then painting with the Cerakote. Once that cures then hit the wood with the lacquer.
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I'm glad I have the MG to keep my left foot happy. It's not fast but sure is a blast to drive.
I bought a 78 MGB with a bad clutch. Pulled the engine and trans,some cleaning and paint paint, new seals and hoses and clutch, de-smogge and it's back on the road. Not very fast but fun.
Planning on swapping the single carb for dual SU's, and exhaust from a 69 MG. Should do much better.
Cant seem to get my pics to rotate correctly.
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Corrected photos.....If you are posting with an iPhone, use the landscape orientation , using the navigation button on the camera to snap the photo, having the navigation button on the right with the volume buttons on the left facing downward. You can also google this problem to get a lot more info on this annoyance........and the fix....( I think Android is the same fix as well )
These two pictures, I just sent yours to my photos on my computer & rotated them and reposted them here....
one nice deal on the S Soft Window Targa........less than what I paid for my 66` 911 in 1995 by about two hundred $
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I have been advised that SEM trim paint is closer to what was used back in 68.
Going to save the Cerakote for other parts and go with SEM.
Still sticking with the Mohawk lacquer.
Now have to wait till the new paint arrives as I want to paint inner part first. Then do the wood last as it is the most important to get right.
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Had a little time at school this morning before I have to proctor a SOL test.
Masked out the wheel and applied first coat of paint. Have to wait 10 minutes between coats so had some time to post.
Tomorrow is clearcoat.
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Applied the Lacquer today. Still adding coats.
Pictures are after 3 coats, 8 coats and full wheel with 8 coats.
Planning on applying a few more to build up the finish but looks good.
I have a few tape marks on the black I need to address. Can said it was cured in 24 hours. Dang!
I originally masked all the zinc metal parts but after looking at my old pictures mine was originally painted. I have no reason to believe it was ever repainted so I went with what I had. Maybe wrong decision.
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I originally saw this on Restoration Design and ran across a post on Pelican that used the same rotisserie. Looks perfect for a one man show. The dimensions are on their site and looks like I can build it for under $300. Should be a fun project.
I have to upgrade the electric in my garage. There are 3 120V outlets and all connected to the dining room. Run the air compressor and the dining room lights go out. In the process of adding 14 20A - 120V outlets, 4 20A-240V and a single 30A-240V Dedicated welder outlet.
Have to wrap up a house to get on the market so progress on the garage is slow.
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I was not happy with the way the steering wheel turned out. It bothered me, the lacquer was not quite thick enough and the black paint was too soft. It easily scratched.
Ordered a Gallon of ready to spray Mowhawk gloss lacquer.
Took some stripper to the black and 320 grit to the wood. Super smooth now. Should be what I'm looking for.
It was probably fine the way it was but it bothered me as it was not the best I could do and I would have to look at it every time I dove the car. Dang!
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MAJOR lesson learned. I left the blue painters tape on the steering wheel over the weekend to make sure the black paint was fully cured before removing. To my surprise, when I tried to remove the painters tape it was bonded to the wood wheel. It peeled off but left the adhesive stuck to the lacquer painted wheel. 100% of the wood was covered in tape adhesive.
I had to use WD40, Lacquer thinner and Acetone to remove it. Took 2 hours to remove and sand down again.
After doing a some internet research- turns out that Blue painters tape and Lacquer do not like each other. I actually used a magnifying glass and read the tint type inside the roll of tape and it actually does state not to use with lacquer. Who Knew?
Turns out the solvents in the lacquer dissolved the adhesive of the tape and now the adhesive stuck to the wood wheel instead of the tape backing. DANG!! what a mess.
That would explain why there is also yellow and green painters tape. They resist solvents and should be used for this instead of the blue. Glad I did not learn this lesson on the fender or hood.
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Finally back at it.
Been busy with other projects. Finally had a chance to set up the garage and play a little.
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Wil get them in primer tomorrow.