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Thread: Question on early pedal cluster clutch pedal pin removal...

  1. #1
    Senior Member StephenAcworth's Avatar
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    Question on early pedal cluster clutch pedal pin removal...

    Hopefully someone can give me the answer to my question:

    I am refurbishing the pedal cluster on my 1966 coupe and have it all out of the car and mostly apart. I was drilling the pin and (of course) the drill bit broke off inside the hole and is now stuck...

    My question is: what is the actual size of the hole in the pedal? I don't want to over drill the metal for obvious reasons...

    Thanks in advance for your help...

    Stephen
    1966 911 Coupe - Slate Grey - 304598 - still in restoration!

    Member #1616

  2. #2
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    I was able to tap the pin out after a soak in Kroil. Even if you drill just a touch oversize, roll pins are available in all sizes. Doubt now that you'll be able to drill out a 'drill'...
    Brian
    S Reg #1032

    "I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!"

  3. #3
    Senior Member Fishcop's Avatar
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    Stephen, I use a punch to drive the roll pin out. Roll-pins are really a "spring" and the steel is high tensile - drilling can be awkward.
    John Forcier
    EarlyS #1987
    1968 911 Race Car "Grun Hilda"
    1969 S/T interpretation "Blau Healer"
    Restoration Saga

  4. #4
    Unfortunately nobody makes metric roll pin punches. Just get yourself a good punch and start wailing. If necessary, add oxy/acetylene torch.
    -Marco
    SReg. #778 OGrp: #8 RGrp: #---
    TLG Auto: Website
    Searching for engine #907495 and gearbox 902/1 #229687

  5. #5
    Senior Member StephenAcworth's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice... any idea on the size of punch to use? I used a 3mm one to get the broken drill bits out, but it is very difficult to see exactly where the pin ends and the pedal begins... everything is pretty rusty!Name:  pedal.jpg
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    1966 911 Coupe - Slate Grey - 304598 - still in restoration!

    Member #1616

  6. #6
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    My advice would be to file the roll pin in the picture until it is flush with the clutch arm as this will give you the exact diameter and ensure the end is not already splayed, and will also reduce the risk of further splaying the end as you start to hit it.
    Get a torch of some kind and heat the arm as hot as possible. Then as stated above select your drift, clamp the arm firmly and give it your very best with a BFH until it admits defeat. This could take a while.

    Bad news is this is likely only the beginning as I have found getting the clutch arm to let go of the shaft is often harder. Again heat and penetrating oil are your friends. I have heard a 50:50 mix of acetone and auto-transmission fluid works best.

    Good luck!
    Mick

  7. #7
    You are going to need heat. Dont try to just drive the clutch shaft out of the pedal, hold the lever end in a vise and move the pedal to get it to spin on the shaft as you drive the shaft out. DONT mushroom the shaft end.
    Last edited by 66S; 05-08-2014 at 03:46 AM.

  8. #8
    Senior Member StephenAcworth's Avatar
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    Thanks guys: I'll do my best!
    1966 911 Coupe - Slate Grey - 304598 - still in restoration!

    Member #1616

  9. #9
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    Does someone on the board offer a rebuild service at a reasonable price? I thought I read it somewhere? Not discouraging the DIY approach, but I don't have oxy/acetylene and I know my limits.

  10. #10
    #2264 classic's Avatar
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    Get it soaking in a good penetrative fluid for a couple of days.

    MAPP gas will get it hot enough, and is something that I go to all the time.

    File it flat as suggested, so you don't flare the end, and support it well.

    Try and find a punch, that touches the edge of the pin, and doesn't go down the centre expanding the pin.

    On the DIY level it's a 4 IMO
    Tony

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