'77 & '75 Turbo Look 3.0

[letsrollbabe]

A few more pics...

[letsrollbabe]

I was asked by an enthusiast to post pics showing the shape of the factory IROC/C3.0 RS as compared to Turbo flares....The view from the side shows the most dramatic differences in the opening size and shape. From the front the flares have a different slope and edge surrounding the opening. The IROC/C3.0 flares are the same as used on the 73 2.8 RSR except for the small extension on the front flares to match up with the signal light boxes.

[928cs]

What's up, Gib?

[letsrollbabe]

The 3.0 RS tribute is still in the body shop...more pics soon (I hope). I've been driving the 77 turbo look a lot lately...I love this car (probably said that before )

[Gburner]

Gib the flares always look great on your cars.
Are you able to have the cars flared even when they are resting at a rake several inches above ride height?

I found a few body shops that had problems with panel placement for a variety of reasons...
Seems more difficult to get it right when the car is not at ride height, new wider wheels not on car, not having the correct alignment...
I've flared my 911 3 times, and have had a few body shops get it wrong.
Have you had any similar experiences?
Or did you just get lucky and find a great flare and body guy?

[letsrollbabe]

I have had quite a few turbo flares welded on by local body shops, and the key has been to get the torsion hole (and rockers if planning on using them) lined up and proper alignment with the rear tail light surround. The technique used by the shop in welding the flares on is also a factor. Butt welding is always preferred, and how that is accomplished can be a factor in fit and how much filler ends up being used (if any). Another can be whether the flares are after market or factory.

I have used factory period flares on both the LY ST and my latest 3.0 RS, both of which are more difficult to attach for the right look and fit. John Esposito did the LY ST flares, and he does things right so I didn't worry about it, but for the other wide body cars I have had done, I have spent quite a bit of time working with the local shop to get the flares aligned right before final welding. Checking the alignment with the car at or near ride height is one of the steps in this process.

[letsrollbabe]

Stopped by the paint shop today to see the work done on the nose for the front-mounted oil cooler. The duct is ready for welding, and final trimming. The duct sits right in front of the tank support member and provides a path down under the car for air flowing through the cooler. My B&B cooler fits very nicely into the duct...pics coming soon for the cooler mounting brackets. Also, the strut brace brackets are shaped to fit on the front wheel swells. These required some cutting to allow them to sit lower because the short hood reinforcements interfered with the tops when closed.

[letsrollbabe]

Here are some shots of how the oil cooler duct was installed...spot welds, like the factory would have done. Seam sealer will be used to close up the outside seams.

[letsrollbabe]

Slow progress on the 3.0 RS...but here are some pics of the strut brace I fabbed from thin wall steel tubing. The strut brace kit from TRE comes with small steel tubes that pass through the larger brace tubing and are then welded in to provide strong support for the bolts. I used a larger diameter (but lighter) steel tube than the one supplied with the TRE kit, and the holes for the small tubes need to be drilled once the exact measurement can be determined with the brackets welded on the strut towers. Just one more small step.

[letsrollbabe]

The front oil cooler duct is now finished with seam sealer added, and the strut brace bracket and bar have been welded. The roll bar is in place to get the final welding of the crow feet and bar. Crow feet from John Gausden's ST-Classic parts. I am leaving the sound padding to keep the interior somewhat quiet since this really is a street car. It will be trimmed back around the crow feet to allow a good welding surface.