Good times... that dung beetle reminds me of the CrossFit schmos in our neighborhood. They’ll lift/push anything to get a workout in.
Rick,
For 30k are you including T-bodies and MFI pump?
Good times... that dung beetle reminds me of the CrossFit schmos in our neighborhood. They’ll lift/push anything to get a workout in.
Rick,
For 30k are you including T-bodies and MFI pump?
Everything's getting done, Frank --- total zero-time. Using, Ollie's, Gus, Eurometrix --- all the usual suspects . . . with Marco quarter-backing. Pistons-cum-barrels look to be the biggest head-ache. And Gus + Eurometrix = 6-to-8 months. We'll re-con the rods, and hope that the crank specs-out OK. But Marco has a good feeling
After 48-plus years --- + almost three trips around the odo . . . Nasty Car put down 145 hp at the rear wheels
Like, yup
It's not about the money, Mark . . . I just don't do shiny. Everything I have just gets used, anyway, so --- even if it starts out perfect . . . it just won't last. Not with me, anyway. I'm more interested in something that works and that I can use. Anything shiny is an accident, pretty-much
Besides --- any finishes that 've survived this long? . . . will just have t' last a while longer. Like the crusty carpets, those infernal door pouches, the de-constructing upholstery . . . and that glorious cracked dash
I love 'used' . . . . almost as much as 'using'
I'm an idiot . . .
. . . but/hey --- just check-out that NOS coil!
......
Last edited by LongRanger; 08-08-2018 at 07:47 PM.
I understand. My S is very similar w no carpet at DS cracked dash and ratty orig. leather. My friends think I’m nuts. I drive. If I make it all perfect then I might worry about it. But I did do my tin bc it was easy and cheap and didn’t take any time. GL w motor. Going to be a nice one.
Mark Erbesfield
2018 911 Carrera T 7spd manual 😊
1973 911S #9113301282
1957 356A #58648
1966 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ45LV
1982 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40
1977 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40
1972 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 FST (Factory Soft Top)
1971 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 “Patina Queen”
1979 MB 450SL "Dad's old car"
2019 Cayenne "Wife's car"
Hate to get in the middle of these but ... you posted it.
Pistons and cylinders are an absolute NO BRAINER with a 2.2S. You have your choice: German made Mahle Motorsports 10.3:1 which you can easily shim to 9.8 or the "other", stock 9.8 Mahles. Both are excellent and work well on street motors.
So...
why the headache?
-Marco
SReg. #778 OGrp: #8 RGrp: #---
TLG Auto: Website
Searching for engine #907495 and gearbox 902/1 #229687
http://www.early911sregistry.org/for...p/t-57305.html
"We hear a lot about how short strokes "spin up" better. Sure, maybe under no load... But the weight of the car, the power available, and its ability to accelerate that car determine how fast any given motor "spins up". The motor with more torque wins this one, given equal gearing and car weight.
Piston speed is not the limiting factor regarding how high we can rev these motors, at least until we are well up over the 8,000 rpm range. The valve train will be the limiting factor. Rocker arm strength and valve spring rate, or their ability to keep the valves from floating, becomes the issue long before a 66mm vs. 70.4mm stroke comes into play.
So, unless the plan is to build some 8,500 rpm screamer of a time bomb (with a very short fuse), I would choose the long stroke. Just my opinion, but I think its advantages in the real world indicate it's the better choice."
Probably as good a thread as any to offend people...
Regarding short vs long stroke; the vast majority of Porsche drivers couldn’t capitalize on the positives of either platform if their life depended on it. The other 1% have my due respect.
This is a discussion mainly for entertainment.
Unless it's a race car being driven in fairly capable hands, it just doesn't matter. Cams and compression are far more critical than stroke and bore on a 2.5.
Last edited by Frank Beck; 08-13-2018 at 05:42 AM.
...$750 yard sale.
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