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Thread: 65 metal work restoration

  1. #141
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Stockholm/Sweden
    Posts
    467
    Baking soda is commonly used for neutralization up here in northern Europe.
    Porsche 935 DP1 Zirkelbach
    930/10
    Resale red

    Porsche 911, 1971
    2.5L on Webers
    Silvermetallic

  2. #142
    Mbr 3268 Fixer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Philadelphia area
    Posts
    548
    Quote Originally Posted by Will 1967 View Post
    But can I ask how do you neutralize acids from solder paste, do you wipe lead loaded areas with damp rag various times?
    I know why this question was asked as I know many have had probs with acids (=rust) pushing through paint later on because of solder paste used before lead loading.

    Its shame to cover this car with paint as it looks perfect even without it, fantastic work!
    Yes, using solder makes the work look as if it's never had a blemish. My Dad always likes to tell how back in the '60s Uncle Harry threw out all of his lead working tools for Bondo. Now we want to see it used ! I also use warm H2O / baking soda to neutralize soon after tinning[but still worry]and always, always use epoxy primer to keep the rust monster away !
    Matthew J. Mariani BSID, Member 32689
    Haverford Pennsylvania

  3. #143
    Quote Originally Posted by michaelaiellosr View Post
    Clearly, a work of art. You guys are commended for a gorgeous restoration. If the follow-on work is anywhere near as artful the result is better than any factory original, probably better than a factory restoration.... a museum piece for sure.
    wow,thank you!

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