Click -- No Start -- Good battery

[drwhosc]

So today, I drove for a long drive for me, about 120 miles. Stopped, got back in the car, all good. I go for about 30 more miles, stop, car rests for a while, no start, no click. I jump the car, and it runs great. The car sits for about 4 hours while at the gathering, and it starts. Drive home, about 120 miles, shut car off, no click, no start, not able to jump.

Voltmeter while driving shows 14v and get battery tested at auto zone, it passes.

I do have a dual set up and while at the gathering, I isolated batteries, and went to a single battery system on driver's side.

I realize I have to check all the connection points, but was wondering if this is all a solenoid issue. Also will check the grounds from the battery. Sometimes I get a click, sometimes I do not.

thanks

[roger911]

Hello
Maybe a bad contact at the Neimann? I heard about that vicious location many times...

[drwhosc]

Not sure where the Neimann is located... Never heard of that one before. But really going to look at my cables. I am wondering if my Pos cable going to the starter is any good. Just don't know why it would jump so easily.

I am running a dual battery with miata batteries they are about 6 months old. Ran great when new, but starting showing issues about 2 months into their life. and I do run them on a battery tender.

[edmayo]

How old is your starter? Have you checked the voltage at the yellow #50 wire at the starter solenoid? Sounds like the usual "hot start' problem. If full battery voltage is available at the #50 wire at the starter then it's probably time to install a good 1.5 hp SR68X starter.

[drwhosc]

Starter has been replaced about 2 years ago, but now I have to wonder about the old adage you get what you pay for. I am going to crawl under the car early next week. I am fairly sure I did high torque starter, but that may have gone on my 928. I have a couple of starters sitting around, and may test one of those for a swap.

I am thinking the hot start is my issue. Things turned over great this AM. I had a battery cut off switch that I pulled and took out of the circuit, and I altered the circuit for my battery tender to work off of positive for one battery and negative of other. Both batteries showed 13.0 volts, together I go a reading of 12.9, and after a start, I got 12.7 at the posts.

I will check the volts back at the starter, and really take a good look at my ground strap. back there.

I am hoping to drive the car to parade this year, so I want to have a good reliable driver....

[gdee123]

There are two multipole connectors - one at either side of the spark box/electrical panel inside the engine bay on extreme left. Disconnect each and simply reconnect, I found a bad starter solenoid connection in here - the yellow wire ref'd above runs through the loom here. If this doesn't fix it check earths, especially the earth strap that bolts to the transmission case.

Garrett

[Dezzmo]

So it only fails to start when hot? I had the same problem last year and it turned out to be the ignition switch, although during both hot and cold situations.

Just something to consider.....

[Barwaut]

Yes, most of the time the ignition switch...

[Paragon]

If your starter is an IMI Hi Torque brand I'd bet it's a starter issue. Really good product at one point and then something changed. After multiple failures we quit selling them.

[Dezzmo]

If your starter is an IMI Hi Torque brand I'd bet it's a starter issue. Really good product at one point and then something changed. After multiple failures we quit selling them.

That's good to know Jason. So we're better off simply having our original starters rebuilt?