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Thread: MY 1970 911E Restoration Project

  1. #31
    Senior Member
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    Thanks for all the comments and keep them coming.

    Regarding the red line on the tach, The factory spec for the 1970 engines shows 6700 RPM for the E model (see attached from the little spec book). The Tach in my car had a 6500 red line before I started and I had North Hollywood replicate it. I have no reason to believe the tach was not original to the car, Date codes on the tach matched the other instruments. I would think the red line should match the spec book. Not sure what to do about this one just yet.

    JB....Not sure what might be wrong with the basket weave on the dash. The original fascia pieces with the original basket weave were restored with new material. See the before pics. I am not sure I see any differences.

    Jim...We did not touch the floorboards since they were in very good condition.
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    Tom Butler
    1973 RSR Clone
    1970 911E
    914-6 GT Clone in Progress

  2. #32
    Senior Member 911T1971's Avatar
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    Agree with others, tach on a 1970E is at 7000rpm.
    I know because at my unrestored RoW 2.2l T its already at 6500rpm ish (see below).



    Are you planning to treat the underside of the car and spray the engine bay black, as edmayo described ?:
    "The engine bay had body color overspray on the undercoat, then was finished in satin black over that. Rub off the black and you'll find body color overspray".
    Just asking.

    beautiful work, keep 'on going…

    (Arrow, engine bay…(tangerine) body color overspray seen underneat black finish)
    Last edited by 911T1971; 12-27-2015 at 07:27 AM.
    Registry member No.773

  3. #33
    Senior Member Chris Pomares's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom1394racing View Post
    Chris

    The unit from this car was fairly clean. I disassemble it and cleaned the housing & distribution valves with soap and hot water. This was followed by a wipe down with interior protectant.

    I have cleaned other units that have had over-spray and road grime. On these I have had to use lacquer thinner and lots of patience.
    Tom,
    Thanks for the quick reply.
    Chris
    1959 Auratium Green 356A Super w/ Rudge wheels
    1970 Irish Green 914-6 w/2.2S
    Current -1967 Bahama Yellow 912 POLO 2cam4 #1
    www.reSeeWorks.com
    Personalized Vintage Porsche's and parts
    I couldn't find the sports car of my dreams, so I built it myself-Ferdinand Porsche

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by 911T1971 View Post
    Are you planning to treat the underside of the car and spray the engine bay black, as edmayo described ?:
    "The engine bay had body color overspray on the undercoat, then was finished in satin black over that. Rub off the black and you'll find body color overspray".
    Karim

    Check the beginning of the post where I describe the chassis prep process. I am trying to make all the surface finishes correct. Looks like I will need to have the Tach redone. I can't understand why the original had a 6500 red line.
    Tom Butler
    1973 RSR Clone
    1970 911E
    914-6 GT Clone in Progress

  5. #35
    The RPM in the spec book is not the tach redline. Note the 'S' one is only shown as 6800, when we all know the tach is marked at 7300. I would install your washer squirters and plastic tubing now while you have some access. The tubing follows the wiring harness clips down the fender. The squirters are hard to get in, I do those right after the wiring, before all that other stuff.
    Early S Registry member #90
    R Gruppe member #138
    Fort Worth Tx.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by edmayo View Post
    I would install your washer squirters and plastic tubing now while you have some access. The tubing follows the wiring harness clips down the fender. The squirters are hard to get in, I do those right after the wiring, before all that other stuff.
    Ed

    Thanks for your input. Can you recommend a general reassembly sequence from this point onwards that will prevent me from going backwards.
    Tom Butler
    1973 RSR Clone
    1970 911E
    914-6 GT Clone in Progress

  7. #37
    Senior Member jim amato's Avatar
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    Tom,correct me if im wrong but I think your luggage compartment lift struts are mounted backwards, well you asked lol!
    registry #2072

  8. #38
    ACCESS! As per Ed....As I've gotten older and stiffer the last items I install are the gas tank and driver's seat. Access to the back of the dash and wiring issues are so much easier with the tank out, and getting to the tunnel and footwell for linkage and final cable adjustment likewise. Detail: the washer line from a short flexible piece at the squirters to the flexible lines at the pump is a greenish/turquoise rigid plastic line.....it's NOT flexible tubing the entire length. Never seen it available from suppliers...hopefully you have yours or can harvest one from a donor.
    Mark Smedley
    '59 VW Typ I
    '69 911T 2.7
    '86 930
    '04 GT3
    '16 Boxster GTS
    '08 MBZ AMG CLK 63 Black Series

  9. #39
    Mark, I get that rigid tubing at my local ACE hdw. It doesn't have that greenish tint, but I wonder if that isn't obtained over time from the washer fluid?
    Early S Registry member #90
    R Gruppe member #138
    Fort Worth Tx.

  10. #40
    As Mark said, last things to go in /on are gas tank, seats, and drivers door. Gas tank for access to trunk, and emergency access to front trunk latch. (just in case you get it wrong!) Seats last for access to all the tunnel work, throttle bushings speedo cable, hand throttle, hand brake cable equalizing, shift linkage. Drivers door for antenna install, plastic cable guide for fuel filler door and paint I.D. plate. All electrical is tested before tank install, better access for trouble shooting. Rear glass after quarter windows, gives better access to latches.
    Early S Registry member #90
    R Gruppe member #138
    Fort Worth Tx.

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