MY 1970 911E Restoration Project

[tom1394racing]

Hi John

It is a worthy goal to follow in your footsteps and drive it to Missouri next year. Maybe not realistic for me. For sure the following year will be on the East Coast and I should make that one.

I had my tach redone by NH. It turns out that the tach was the one gauge that appeared to have been replaced at some point.

[merbesfield]

Looking good Tom. Can anyone point me towards the gasoline vent tubing supplier others have used?

[tom1394racing]

I purchased all my tubing from McMaster Carr.

5187K75 Fuel and Lubricant Yellow PVC Tubing 1/2" ID, 5/8" OD, 1/16" Wall Thickness, 10 ft.

5187K68 Fuel and Lubricant Yellow PVC Tubing 5/8" ID, 7/8" OD, 1/8" Wall Thickness, 10 ft.

[tom1394racing]

Some more progress this week. Rear seats, parcel shelf, carpeting, all cabling, e-brakes and heater flapper boxes.

[304065]

I guess the tubing was originally clear and with the exposure to gasoline vapors it slowly aged down to the yellow/orange color we see today. I used clear, thinking that clear would be what it would look like on the production line. I don't think anybody knows for sure and the yellow will look like we expect it to look.

[merbesfield]

I guess the tubing was originally clear and with the exposure to gasoline vapors it slowly aged down to the yellow/orange color we see today. I used clear, thinking that clear would be what it would look like on the production line. I don't think anybody knows for sure and the yellow will look like we expect it to look.

I too used clear, Tyogon was the brand I used, on my 73S and it is now a nice amber yellow just like the old stuff I took off. Only softer as it is not 40+ years old. I tried to buy some more of the Tygon and it appears the larger size may have been discontinued but I am close to having a solution.

[xpensivewino]

Tom, it looks outstanding! It's fun to see, because we are in very similar places with our restos. One cautionary note I have with your interior trimming, is to watch how far you go. My Brother told me to make my car a complete running driving and sorted car before doing any trim work, interior, bumpers, trunk blower cover/carpets etc., rocker trims etc. This advice has helped me a lot, as thus far, I had a brand new out of the box ATE master cylinder that was faulty, my newly rebuilt 0 mile gearbox has a seeping input shaft seal, I had to make many adjustments to parking brake balance, and throttle rod bushings in the tunnel. The list goes on and on. It saved me a lot of trouble, and gave me so much more access to not have things buttoned up too tight. Of course you look like a lunatic sitting on a milk crate driving around your neighborhood with no front and back glass, no bumpers, etc., but it's all part of the experience. Congrats on a lovely resto thus far, your car is going to be amazing...Steve

[tom1394racing]

Tom, it looks outstanding! It's fun to see, because we are in very similar places with our restos. One cautionary note I have with your interior trimming, is to watch how far you go. My Brother told me to make my car a complete running driving and sorted car before doing any trim work, interior, bumpers, trunk blower cover/carpets etc., rocker trims etc. This advice has helped me a lot, as thus far, I had a brand new out of the box ATE master cylinder that was faulty, my newly rebuilt 0 mile gearbox has a seeping input shaft seal, I had to make many adjustments to parking brake balance, and throttle rod bushings in the tunnel. The list goes on and on. It saved me a lot of trouble, and gave me so much more access to not have things buttoned up too tight. Of course you look like a lunatic sitting on a milk crate driving around your neighborhood with no front and back glass, no bumpers, etc., but it's all part of the experience. Congrats on a lovely resto thus far, your car is going to be amazing...Steve

Steve ......Good advice. The front seats will be one of the last things to go in. I still have some electrical work and checkout to do. Then I plan to install the fuel tank. After that I still need to build the engine and finish the gearbox. After installing the engine and gearbox, I plan to adjust the ride height and suspension settings before firing up the engine. Sound about right?

[xpensivewino]

I think you are about right there Tom. The fuel tank was one of the last items I put in for front access reasons. My engine and trans were done before the rest of the car, so I was able to put it in fairly early. I used the ride height calculator from rennlist and it worked really well for the rear, so not much adjustment was needed there. I checked all electrical circuits ahead of time. You can get some pretty tiny 12 volt batteries that actually have a lot of power, to test almost every item and system in the car. These batteries are often used as back up, or memory power sources in modern luxury cars like MBZ, or Audi's etc. They are smaller than a pound of butter box, and are very handy to have for systems tests, as you can move them anywhere.

[tom1394racing]

I think you are about right there Tom. The fuel tank was one of the last items I put in for front access reasons. My engine and trans were done before the rest of the car, so I was able to put it in fairly early. I used the ride height calculator from rennlist and it worked really well for the rear, so not much adjustment was needed there. I checked all electrical circuits ahead of time. You can get some pretty tiny 12 volt batteries that actually have a lot of power, to test almost every item and system in the car. These batteries are often used as back up, or memory power sources in modern luxury cars like MBZ, or Audi's etc. They are smaller than a pound of butter box, and are very handy to have for systems tests, as you can move them anywhere.

Thanks Steve

I use a 12V DC power supply to test components off the car. It is limited to 3 amps so when testing components on the car I have been using the car battery with an in-line 20 amp fuse.