911 R with 1968 912 roots..

[Schiefer]

I hope i'm not coming off like "look at me" It's not why I'm posting. There's so much talent and more knowledgeable people on this forum. I want to document this tub restoration and this is the best way for me to prove i made a solid repair of it.

Not at all. Love your work, thanks for sharing!!

Cheers, Radmund

[Fixer]

Thanks Radmund, I was getting a little concerned. More resto doc:
Driver's side bearing bracket repair today. Another 5 hours this am. I removed, blasted and remade this rearmost suspension mount with 20 ga sheet metal inside and 18 ga for the floor area. I wanted to reuse the original brackets for a few reasons; repros don't look the same [very different] and to get exact placement w/o Celette. If i cut up an inch above the brackets into good metal [should anyway] with a 1/16" thin grinder blade and then space 1/16" when reattaching in this area, I'm positive of an exact placement without needing a Celette bench. I'm lucky on both sides, there is good clean metal above and around.

After bead blasting the original part, I rebuilt the interior of it around the nut and up the walls in each direction with highest quality 20 ga. mild steel, then beefed up outside with the MIG, then i galvanize primer'd inside in this small cavity before closing it up. I have those pics but only 10 are allowed per post.. It's stronger than new imo because the walls that support the nut area are about 1/8" rather than 20 ga.. And it went back where it was which is paramount. Now i can work from these points with the suspension when repairing the front pan. Still weld clean up to do but once primed, neatly sealed, Shutz'd etc., it should look unaltered. The passenger side bracket is worse, may tackle that tomorrow.
Have a great night everyone.

[Fixer]

Removing undercoating in preparation for suspension pan repair. [2 hours] I want to keep track of the weight savings doing this.

The areas removed in pics weigh 2 lbs., 5oz, and fills the grocery bag only about 2.5". There is still a decent residue though so it's not entirely precise. I'm going to save it all in bag until the end and will post my findings for the group.

[Fixer]

6 hours approx, removing undercoating and exposing and assessing corrosion up front. I'll blast and galvanizing primer inside between the upper and lower suspension pans but wanted to document the before.

The great thing about having so much time getting the tub ready is having time to think about your build. I really love watching those 911R videos online.

I'm thinking i really want flat 6 power in my lightweight sepia brown/white w/ black accents 911R clone.

First pic is removing the drilled and broken bolt from a passenger side mount

[obscene]

whoa. how hard would it be to get access to a media blaster?

[Fixer]

whoa. how hard would it be to get access to a media blaster?

I have one. I'll blast once the bad metal is removed. How's the rear bumper?

[Fixer]

8 week mark on tub work.
9 more hours since last post stripping off factory body sealant for that eventual nice clean 911 R look where all pinch welds can be seen. I got it off all the way up an behind the dash. FYI: The under coating up front I removed so far weighs 12 pounds, plenty more to remove on the underside of the floor, interior and engine bay. I want to make this Porsche as light as i can. Going with fiberglass wings, bumpers, engine lid, hood and maybe doors. If i use the steel door I will remove the undercoating sprayed inside them.

There are a lot of small misc areas where there is corrosion that must be dealt with as seen in pics. I'm ready to start cutting and welding again.

[Fixer]

I've been going back and forth with the idea of going flat 6 with this 912.

Using a high performance Type 4 would save close to 200 lbs of weight out back before i add the oil coolers and external oil tank.

I'm thinking again how cool a real deal 912R build would be if built as like a 911R as i can..

I.e., w/ twin Bendix fuel pumps, twin blue Bosch coils for it's twin plug cylinders, I plan to dry sump and plumb 2 oil coolers, 1 under each fiberglass wing like an R but scaled down in diameter to suit the motor / pump. I also want this 912R build to have the oil cap location in the passenger rear quarter feature. I'd like some help with exact placement of this hole.

I have the 2.0L type 4 motor built with 10:1 CR, but I'm thinking about pulling the heads and machining a second plug pointing to the exhaust valve and fitting an old twin plug Nissan 720 distributor..They have the contacts set 15 degrees apart like an old 4 cam engine. I feel i could bump the CR ratio up to 11:1.

Also I'm not using a 911 type fan, I want it to look more like a old 4 cam engine or simply look like a twin plug 356 or 912 engine.


If a real 911R weighed 1760 lbs [see CAR and DRIVER scan from 1968] My 912R should be as light or lighter.


I'm getting excited to plumb [rough in] the brass oil lines up in the boot just like an R only the tube diameter will be smaller..

A well done 912R would be a super cool build, think I'm sticking with the flat 4.

[obscene]

How's the rear bumper?

Unfortunately the same as I left it previously. Just haven't been able to get out to the garage lately with work and baby dialed up to 11.

[obscene]

A well done 912R would be a super cool build, think I'm sticking with the flat 4.

hard to argue against using an engine you already have.