Reproduction 100L Gas Tanks

[1968DT]

I am thinking of installing a 100L repo gas tank, SWB, and there seems to be two versions out there (I want one to fill up with high octane gas). One by a well known large company/mfc. and another by a small fry shop with chops. The difference is price but maybe quality and adherence to Le' Past (whatever). It also appears upon cursory research there is only one manufacturer for the fuel sending unit that is required, but another if you want one converted to work with 100L tank.

Anybody out there that can shed light on this major purchase (must be kept from the better half at all costs), that has gone thru this ordeal?

xoxoxo

[endo911rs]

The Dansk tank is great. It fits well, it's made of 100% new metal etc. if you want to keep costs down, use your old sender for the time being. You will have a larger reserve capacity but how often do you drive your car and how often do you run it on empty. You can sneak that one past the wife at a later date ��.

Remember to buy a new tank to body seal, new hose to connect to the filler neck, new brass feed line with filter and the necessary crush washers. You can probably reuse your other tank plugs if they aren't all rusted to the old tank.

[chris_seven]

There are two issues with the Dansk 100 litre tank which need to be considered if you are being 'picky'.

The flange around the edge which seat them into the bodyshell tends to be a little too wide and needs to be relived if it is to sit correctly into the floor pan.

We have had 3 tanks now and all suffered the same issue.

The other problem is the fuel inlet/outlet connectors which are at a different angle to the factory original tank.

The 62 litre Dansk Tank suffers from the same issue.

When the tank is used with an early steel crossmember the original tank has the fuel hose adaptors set at a angle due to the shape of the pressing.

This means the hoses and fittings easily clear the crossmember.

The fittings on the Dansk Tank are not angled and the adapters and hoses tend to make a light contact with the crossmember.

The pressure of the contact is not great ...but I feel that there really needs to be some clearance.

We now have a threaded bar that fits the outlets and we gently 'tweak' the tank so there is clearance.

With regard to the sender - VDO make a 340mm long sender for around $65.

The top connection is incorrect and it doesn't have the connection for the low fuel level light but is you take the two senders you can make a unit that looks correct and works in around 40 minutes.

They read correctly and put on the light. and they connect back into the standard loom.

[endo911rs]

Agree about the angle of the fitting. I forgot about that. I was able to heat up the brass fitting and get it to bend with a large drift.

Haven't had an issue with the flange on 3 tanks though.

[chris_seven]

I think they they may vary slightly and the tanks we have modified have only needed the odd millimetre taking off the flange.

[1968DT]

I think they they may vary slightly and the tanks we have modified have only needed the odd millimetre taking off the flange.

Did you use a hand held wheel grinder to remove material? All around or just here and there?

Thanks for replies!

[chris_seven]

We used a small pneumatic belt sander and not all around just where it was needed. Belt width is around 10mm.

As long as you don't get close to the 'resistance' weld it won't be a problem.

[VZ935]

I think you should just buy my tank I have for sale on Pelican

[1968DT]

Do you think Wurth High Build UnderBody UnderSeal would be okay to use on the underside of the Dansk tank?

[Longballa]

It's up to you if you want to coat the bottom but if I did I'd use Wurth SKS shot through the gun. Rattle can stuff is very thin.

Do you think Wurth High Build UnderBody UnderSeal would be okay to use on the underside of the Dansk tank?