Er - any straight lines on a 911? apart from the aforementioned on the door top?
Er - any straight lines on a 911? apart from the aforementioned on the door top?
Membership #3255
301022
revivem.co.nz
The front and rear deck lids on a 911 have a straight outline--almost a trapezoid--cut into a fairly simple curve of the body shape.
The front and rear deck lids on a 356 have a curved outline cut into a compound curved body shape.
Jim Alton
Torrance, CA
Early 911S Registry # 237
1965 Porsche 911 coupe
1958 Porsche 356A cabriolet
Yes that's true but I will proffer that it just as easy to get into trouble when you have the rear guards cut off and the front valence to replace on a 911 as what it is on a 356 - That is if you want everything to line up again nicely.
We are often asked about costs and as a general rule regardless of the type of car costs can be remarkably similar.
To paint a 356 or a 911 or a VW Beetle to show standard takes a similar amount of time - A VW buss a little more due to acreage and more material.
Bodywork - 356 & 911 under the skin are very similar and tend to rust in the same places - difference in time do a floor replacement - none, sills & rockers about the same, front fender bottom repair - likely longer on a 911. Headlight bucket repair same. Hood repair - probably longer on a 911 as the front edge more likely to be rusted out. Glass in and out same. Rear quarter windows same unless its a later 911 with aluminium frames where the time will be much more than a 356. Rear of 911 assembly compared to 356 more time - there's more pieces separate bumpers rear valance. Front fender removal on average 911 probably more - its not every 356 you have to remove them. In a race I reckon I'd have the front fenders and clip/nose off a 356 with 0.8mm cutting disc quicker than I could get them unbolted off a 911. The time you spend fixing the 911 flange where the fender bolts on which will most likely be rusted will go a long way to welding the 356 front back on. And I could go on.
Interior - Same unless in the 911 you have inertia belts in which case the covers will eat more time than a 356.
Suspension - more time in a 911 - sway bars and the 911 front suspension way more time consuming than a 356 - assuming you do all the bushes so many parts to paint/plate assemble.
Wiring complete harness in & out - more time in a 911 lots more gadgets.
Engine & trans A no brainer - way more time than a 356 - all those extra cogs and cylinders and camshafts and oil tanks and carburettor's or MFI
I guess one can see where this is heading - as a general rule there is more in a 911 resto than a 356. I have a database of every hour worked in my shop since 2005. At a glance I know total hours for each project roughly broken down into paint interior suspension etc. Unfortunately every car comes in a different state and we don't have good comparisons. If I was asked a guess I'd say a 911 from hours perspective 10-15% more. From a price perspective - well the engine will fix that.
A selection of the painted ones at our shop
Membership #3255
301022
revivem.co.nz
Nice line up Ivan, very cool!
FWIW a VW transporter (aka panel) is a lot harder to restore correctly body-wise than any Porsche. Flat panels are a lot less forgiving than curved panels.
~J~
air cooled only
+ 1 Jon B
Any shop that would offer me the same final bill for a Split 356 as an comparable early 911 (equally good results) IŽd send 5 cars right away.
Porsche 935 DP1 Zirkelbach
930/10
Resale red
Porsche 911, 1971
2.5L on Webers
Silvermetallic
I have some experience rebuilding 356 and 911 engines (once each). I recall the 356 as a bit trickier, and 356 main bearing prices will get your attention. You used to be able to save money on 356 connecting rods by getting Carrillos.
On the other hand, a 911 engine on a stand occupies about a half acre.
Jim Alton
Torrance, CA
Early 911S Registry # 237
1965 Porsche 911 coupe
1958 Porsche 356A cabriolet
Ha. Won’t even get in to a 356 Carerra 1500cc 4 cam engine to rebuild! Teasing.
Current project