Bad oil for our engines

[raspy2point2]

Some say our oil is getting watered down. Over on the pelican site engine building forum some people are saying Joe Gibbs oil is the only oil that have the correct additive package for our engines now. Anybody heard of this? I am talking about Zinc and other important additives that we need. Chris

[Gearby]

A bit of a Twist on that, I've wondered if we could add an item such as red line break in engine oil additive to add the zinc and phosphorus. Here is a quote from their description:
It provides conventional motor oils with anti-wear additives, like zinc and phosphorus, that are necessary to protect against camshaft and valve train damage on break-in. This is especially important in flat-tappet engines where bigger camshaft grinds and higher valve spring pressures are now popular. It is designed to allow piston rings to seat properly, while allowing other engine components to avoid excessive wear. Features: Provides conventional motor oils with antiwear additives like zinc and phosphorus (ZDDP) necessary to protect against camshaft and valvetrain damage on break-in. Allow pistons rings to seat properly with less-slick oil, while antiwear additives protect other engines components to avoid excessive wear. Can also be used in conventional and synthetic oils during regular operation, providing an extra package of protection otherwise not found in most motor oils. 16oz bottle treats up to 12 quarts of motor oil in many cases, one bottle can serve two engines or oil changes.

Can it be this simple? Or is there a known problem with this kind of thing?
I especially took note of the part where it can be used in conventional and synthetic oils during regular use to add the components not found in today's oils.

[72targa]

Modern API SN Plus/ILSAC GF-5 oils that you see on the shelf (SAE 0W-20, 5W-20, 5W-30 & 10W-30) are like their predecessors. They have limits on phosphorous so as to not foul catalytic converters. The earlier suggested oils for our air cooled engines have included a variety of specialty oils in the SAE 20W-50 grade (such as Brad Penn). These offer much higher levels of Zn/P and cannot be ILSAC GF-6 licensed oils. I would first see what level of Zn/P in PPM you are looking for and then go from there. The words above are not enough. And remember that there are only three primary manufacturers of engine oil DI packages globally: Infineum, Lubrizol and Oronite.

[ptrsbtrs]

"It provides conventional motor oils with anti-wear additives, like zinc and phosphorus, that are necessary to protect against camshaft and valve train damage on break-in. This is especially important in flat-tappet engines where bigger camshaft grinds and higher valve spring pressures are now popular. It is designed to allow piston rings to seat properly, while allowing other engine components to avoid excessive wear."

This reminds me of shampoo ads: "Cleans and conditions at the same time!"
Not sure how that works. Either it strips oils from the hair or it adds it in some form. It seems it'd be tough to do both simultaneously.

[Frank Beck]

Just use Brad Penn and fuggit about all of the other discussion.

Next item on the agenda?

[geneulm]

+1. Maybe more.

[sithot]

Penn Grade now.

BITD, Kendall GT1 was the oil of choice. It was green. My 1st 911 with bad guides, leaky #8 crank seal, oil return tubes etc. painted the garage floor green.

[Frank Beck]

We switched from Motul to BP in 2005 and have never looked back. Not just valve train but the difference in lower end bearing wear was astonishing.

[redcar]

What weight are you running?

Bob

[Frank Beck]

20-50.
On race motors we don’t let the dogs loose until at least 150F oil temp.