Bad oil for our engines

[Bavaria911]

Who remembers back 2 years ago when VR1 20-50 was selling for $1 per quart due to a change in advertisement?
I used it all up, but returned to BP 20-50 and will stay with it....unless there is another sale :-)

[RSTarga]

LOL

Bill Verburg @ posts #10 and #13.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...-porsches.html

I use VR1 20w50. It's easy to find and has enough Zn. Not sure who is "bottling" Porsche Classic Oil but there are more than a handful that produce this viscosity.
FWIW, Castrol and Agip and others make "classic motor oils".

Castor in the crankcase smells nice too.

Bill uses Mobil 1 15w-50 too. Cheap, good and available.

[AKAMick]

I was informed by some diesel truck enthusiasts that the oils used for diesel engines, still do contain the zinc and the other additives that older classic cars require. I did some reading and found that a lot of owners of other classic cars seem to subscribe to the use of diesels engine oils for this reason.

[911MRP]

I was informed by some diesel truck enthusiasts that the oils used for diesel engines, still do contain the zinc and the other additives that older classic cars require. I did some reading and found that a lot of owners of other classic cars seem to subscribe to the use of diesels engine oils for this reason.

Question reminds me that the 73 RS press demonstrator in the UK was supplied with a gallon of Shell Rotella in the trunk for top up purposes in January 1973. The formulation of Rotella in the day was deemed suitable for air-cooled 911 of 1973 model year. Lubricant technology has moved on in 45 years and new formulations available raising the questions in this thread but in 1973 the fact the factory was still recommending and importer supplying a "straight" engine oil in what was then amongst the most expensive highest performing road cars available in the British market drew tester comment.

My previous post #18 & 20 how it was back in the day for historical interest in another old thread ......

http://www.early911sregistry.org/for...lla#post931962

Not recommending it today but sharing it again for information.
Steve

[72targa]

I was informed by some diesel truck enthusiasts that the oils used for diesel engines, still do contain the zinc and the other additives that older classic cars require. I did some reading and found that a lot of owners of other classic cars seem to subscribe to the use of diesels engine oils for this reason.

Not any that claim API SN/SN Plus (which is most). Diesel (heavy duty) motor oils are primarily built to deal with soot. They are excellent at preventing wear found in modern Diesel engines (abilities such as million mile engines and 50,000 mile oil changes, noting the very large oil sumps and oil analysis and...and...). All that said, I primarily appreciate comments like Frank's in post #8, indicating real life rebuilding experience in our particular engines relative to the oil used.

[runsub5]

Liqui Moly produces a Classic motor oil 20W-50. Anyone know how the zinc and phosphorous concentrations compare with Brad Penn Racing oil? I wonder lf Liqui Moly is packaging Porsche Classic as it is made in Germany.

[RSTarga]

[QUOTE=911MRP;1001194]Question reminds me that the 73 RS press demonstrator in the UK was supplied with a gallon of Shell Rotella in the trunk for top up purposes in January 1973. The formulation of Rotella in the day was deemed suitable for air-cooled 911 of 1973 model year. Lubricant technology has moved on in 45 years and new formulations available raising the questions in this thread but in 1973 the fact the factory was still recommending and importer supplying a "straight" engine oil in what was then amongst the most expensive highest performing road cars available in the British market drew tester comment.]

In the beginning I used Pennzoil or Kendall straight 30W until Mobil SHC 15w-50 came out, (now Mobil 1). I've been running it ever since.

[62S-R-S]

Viscosity matters and few would consider a straight oil in their motor today..but if you have [1] oz. of 30 wt oil on a propane heated to 220F, it will thin as you expect. Somewhat 'unexpected' is that a 20 - 50 wt. thins out similarly at that temp as well. Difficult to tell them apart from the other, visually.

[72targa]

Comparable viscosities are measured in centistokes at 40C and 100C. The measurements are made in measured capillaries. The oil film is measured in microns so your visual representation doesn't tell you much. The significant data are the engine tests that are run to establish how oils compare to API and ILSAC (and ACEA) specs. I still contend that the best data I've read here is Frank's data on what he's seen in 911 engine tear downs. And I work in the oil industry.

[sithot]

Comparable viscosities are measured in centistokes at 40C and 100C. The measurements are made in measured capillaries. The oil film is measured in microns so your visual representation doesn't tell you much. The significant data are the engine tests that are run to establish how oils compare to API and ILSAC (and ACEA) specs. I still contend that the best data I've read here is Frank's data on what he's seen in 911 engine tear downs. And I work in the oil industry.

Are racing engines a good comparison for start/stop/cold starts/stop and go running? As Frank noted, they don't move until 150º is reached. I can count on two hands the number of people I've seen do that with a street engine. I seem to recall my VW bug manual stating "drive" or something to that end after the car is started. No warm ups.

Engines pushed to the max are subject to flexing. Shuffle pins have been a band-aid for as long as I can remember. Line (align) boring is another treatment for worn distorted cases. All magnesium cases should be line (align) bored before rebuilding; period. Dimensional stability isn't helped by stress and heat. I'm quite sure Frank is a talented builder but even he cannot defeat father time.

"Aluminum loses one-third of its strength at 200 degrees, so aluminum blocks must have thicker structures to compensate."
Footnote: http://articles.latimes.com/1992-03-...uminum-engines

Proverb: "It costs money to go racing":
https://noonanrace.com/blogs/news/no...1-porsche-case

"They built an aluminum prototype for us which we tested for a season and half (about 60 hours) – with NO issues at all. At 25 hours of use, we took it out and thoroughly inspected it, put it back together and back in the car as is. Our next benchmark will be at the 50-55 continuous hours mark, and that’s mainly to check the turning parts!”.

Engine oil? Lots of great choices including the aforementioned Mobil 1. Mercedes AMG recommends it, Corvette (15-50 for track days), Porsche.....etc

How about this?