Bad oil for our engines

[RTincher]

Just to confirm for someone who has used Brad Penn for years, PennGrade is the same product from the same manufacturer?

Thanks,

Bob

[HarryD]

Just to confirm for someone who has used Brad Penn for years, PennGrade is the same product from the same manufacturer?

Thanks,

Bob

Bob:

From what I can gather, PennGrade is the same oil as Brad-Penn which is the same oil as the original Kendall GT1. They are all refined by the same refinery in Bradford Pennsylvania and fed from the ocal Pennsylvania wells. Years ago I looked into all of this. Besides the oil being green, it also has an unusually high level of sodium.

[RTincher]

Harry, thanks for clarifying this.

Bob

[Djthom]

I've been using the Penngrade oil in my car since it's rebuild. Recently I've had suggestions to move to Liqui Moly. Is there any consensus on which of these 2 is preferred in our engines?

[Chuck Miller]

I used Kendall GT-1 for over 40 years until they were bought by ConocoPhillips, changed the formula, and then told me it was the same....

I've been with BradPenn/Penngrade 20-50 ever since with no complaints....

cm

[sithot]

There's a thread on Pelican that's years in the making.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...4-sm-oils.html

[HarryD]

Times have changed. I recently saw this posted by Bill Verberg at the Bird (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...4-sm-oils.html):

I was browsing another oil thread and found this post by Bill Verburg. Looks like some significant changes in our favored oils.

There have definitely been formulation changes in some oils over the last 10 yrs.

LN Engineering puts out an informative series of updates on this topic

here is the latest detailing changes in Brad Penn and VR1

LN is recommending the newest line of Driven oils, specifically Driven GP-1 20w-50 or 15w-40 for the aircooled cars

I see no change in M1 15w-50 and will continue to use it in my cars.

and this by me:

I have been having some conversations with other about alternative oils to try. As Adias notes, Liqui Moly has some products that may be pretty good.

The two that seem to make sense to me are: Liqui Moly Hi Tech (API SL - https://products.liqui-moly.com/oils...-20w-50-1.html)

and

Liqui Moly Classic (API SE - https://products.liqui-moly.com/oils...20w-50-hd.html)

[DanielJ]

http://stlouisncrs.org/news_files/St..._July_2011.pdf

The above link contains some useful information on oil and it’s formulation as well as the API classifications. Scroll through the article until you find the information written by Duke WIlliams.

I deffer to Duke because I’ve owned early Corvettes that have engines with sliding surfaces and just like Porsche guys, early Corvette owners are just as passionate over the oil religion.

Further, I like to change the oil in all of my cars. It makes me think I’m a great mechanic, and, clearly, I am not great at much of anything.

While on the subject of mechanics that see the internals of our Porsche engines on a daily basis, if Mr. Beck says BP is the go to oil, you should listen to what he has to say.

Back to the attached article, it goes into depth over CJ-4 oil. Worth to note at this point in time, CJ-4 has been replaced by CK-4 ratings. Google the difference.

My time frame for oil change is annually or 3K miles on all of my engines with “sliding surface” interfaces and rarely does any one of these cars see 3K miles in a year save for my ‘59 356.



DJ.

[HarryD]

http://stlouisncrs.org/news_files/St..._July_2011.pdf

The above link contains some useful information on oil and it’s formulation as well as the API classifications. Scroll through the article until you find the information written by Duke WIlliams.

I deffer to Duke because I’ve owned early Corvettes that have engines with sliding surfaces and just like Porsche guys, early Corvette owners are just as passionate over the oil religion.

Further, I like to change the oil in all of my cars. It makes me think I’m a great mechanic, and, clearly, I am not great at much of anything.

While on the subject of mechanics that see the internals of our Porsche engines on a daily basis, if Mr. Beck says BP is the go to oil, you should listen to what he has to say.

Back to the attached article, it goes into depth over CJ-4 oil. Worth to note at this point in time, CJ-4 has been replaced by CK-4 ratings. Google the difference.

My time frame for oil change is annually or 3K miles on all of my engines with “sliding surface” interfaces and rarely does any one of these cars see 3K miles in a year save for my ‘59 356.



DJ.

Daniel:

While I agree with 99% of your post, recent changes to the additive packages (as I have noted above) have lessened my support of BP 20W-50 oil for MY car.

FWIW, I have been using BP since the early '90's and when I needed to get my top end redone a few years ago (due to my stupidity), the internals looked great.

After I read the LN engineering article http://campaign.r20.constantcontact....c-362ab1508928, I consulted with my local "experts" and they told me they have moved from BP to the Driven GP-1 product. Given that they have seen and repaired more engines than I will ever do in my lifetime, I trust their judgement.

Of course, you, like anyone else, is free to make their own choices.

[michaelaiellosr]

I am most impressed by people in the business of commercial automotive lubrication as a livelihood. Anyone wanting to know more might google anything by Richard Widman. For instance, Selection of the Right Motor Oil for the Corvair and other Engines By Richard Widman. https://www.widman.biz/uploads/Corvair_oil.pdf Probably more than you wanted to know.