Went by the body shop today.
The front suspension pan that has been changed before I bought the car is 6mm (1/4'') too high…
Oh well, won't change much to re-set it at this point.
Went by the body shop today.
The front suspension pan that has been changed before I bought the car is 6mm (1/4'') too high…
Oh well, won't change much to re-set it at this point.
make sure you check all of your fixtures.... make sure you check the car for being level on the workstation …. when looking at the photo of the gap at the fixture, the car looks pretty good , not that it could not be out.... but seeing the condition in that area of the suspension pick up point, it is hard to imagine that it is out as much as you are showing...… never hurts to double and triple check measurements and tool/fixtures..... good luck.. make sure fixture is correct for your year.... I remember it being mentioned that certain fixtures and years need to be shimmed.... sorry I don't remember more exactly which needs the shim....
Last edited by bob joyce; 09-11-2019 at 09:34 AM.
Sounds like the person who installed the front pan, "eyeballed" it.
I will indeed check the fixtures. the car has been set on the jig by a company that does *only* that, so I hope they are correct.
Question: I have hi resolution files of the factory dimensions for jig/straightening purposes, but the relevant schemes for the front of the car are for 1970 model year.
Is there any difference with regards to front A arm references between '69 and '70?
I would say dimensions for 69-73 cars would be the same.
George ….. just because.... I see that the car was mounted on the fixtures and on the flatbed truck …. then, I presume, offloaded into the shop with the car still on the celette.. I would hope that you leveled the cellete and check to see if the fixtures are correct... even big pieces of steel can move....
Thanks all for the additional info.
I will go and check the straightness/levelness of the jig. I am rather positive that the front A arms attachments are too high, as so far every other reference point in front is correct. There is even a reference for the door hinges, and the first 2 fender bolt holes, that all line up as well.
The right rear longitudinal has been pulled back about 10mm, and the new (modified for correctness) rear engine support/latch panel is welded in. References are spot on.
The rear torsion tube (what's left of it) is also correctly lined up in the middle by the trailing arms attachments. I think I will weld some reinforcements between these attachments and the rear seat pans (on the new tube).
its great that you have so much confirming data. that makes it a lot easier. if rear torsion tube and rear engine mounts are centered, square and at correct elevation, that's good...
Paid a visit to the body shop.
Rear torsion bar tube swapped out, aligned on the jig and welded on the right side, not completely yet. The tube is aligned with the references so it bodes well. Rear left inner fender repaired, left on the way. Underside of left longitunal also on the way.
The jig is straight as an arrow and level, references seem correct. I say "seem" because these parts are solid steel parts, that have been used many times already, and because all points line up that can be checked, save for the front A-arms that will need correction.
The longitudinals that have been repaired seem too high in the front. These will be changed, along with some scary welding.
Questions:
-Does anyone have the measures for the seat rails attachment in the shell? NOT the measures when the bolt on rails and supports are in, but the references of the threaded inserts in the center tunnel and side longitudinal.
-Does anyone have a reference chart for the pedal cluster and throttle pedal? The jig for the throttle pedal has several possible places in the base.
Powdercoating, 2nd lot. I asked for a bit more matte, it is. Likely a bit too shiny, but I will live with it. They masked every thread and interface, and the covering is homogenous. Some samples below:
Last edited by GeorgeK; 09-22-2019 at 01:24 AM.