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Thread: 119200154

  1. #161
    Thankless job and a new question:

    Rear bumper mouldings. These were filthy. Between the rubber and alloy, under the thin trim, everywhere. One rubber moulding also had a broken stud, in an otherwise good condition part.
    I made a heat protection plate out of steel scrap then welded a bolt to the stud stub, which got trimmed and re-threaded. Worked a treat.

    Question: bought a wide mouth oil tank filler, that has a smaller side tube. How important is it to have a wide tube in that spot? I can change it over, but if it isn't needed, I'd rather not.

  2. #162
    It is important. That is where the breather hose goes, and it must fit as original, not sloppy fit. The oversized mouth fillers I have seen have the correct size nipple for the breather hose.

  3. #163
    Front bumper moulding: this one is in bad shape. Bent in several spots, with torn rubber trim and seized rusted steel bolts in it.
    I cleaned it once, cut the seized broken bolts with an angle grinder and hemmered them out.
    With a vise, some cut wooden dowels and some strong pulling, I managed to bring it closer to correct, but I'll wait to get to the bumper to finish it. No plan for the rubber yet.

  4. #164
    Nice work manipulating the bumper trim pieces back into shape.
    How did the sunroof panel graft work out ? Are you able to tell there is a weld seem there? Reason I ask is I have heard it's difficult to make the graft unnoticeable.

  5. #165
    Hi Nick,
    Thank you. After all this, it turns out a new (repop) moulding is 250$... Not sure what to do, but I suspect the repops are not very good.

    The roof is not finished yet. It is spot welded in, and there is no warping so far, but the plan is to perimeter weld it in, which is not done yet.

  6. #166
    Nice to see progress on this build, thanks for sharing!

    I got a re-pop and it wasn't too bad - I believe the genuine Porsche items are considerably more expensive and might be better, but experience with the genuine parts is proving that they aren't always worth the money, and returns are difficult. You might be more able to negotiate a return if parts are not up to you expectations.

    At the end of the day, saving that original part might be more satisfying, even if it's not perfect it does belong with the car

  7. #167
    Hi Jon,
    I am leaning towards trying to save the alloy part and source a rubber. I don't want/can't afford to replace every worn/marked part, that would kill me budget wise, and I want to be reminded that the car is 50+ years old, not all new parts.
    Still love your build, though.

  8. #168
    This week's batch

  9. #169
    Real progress. You got that rear decklid to fit better?

  10. #170
    That is the steel lid. We figured he takes both and starts with the original to the car to adjust the upper corners and sides of the opening to the new rear fenders. the rear edge has been hit, but not rusted. Once the opening is set, we'll see which one he can straighten easiest, for starters. He is not a fan of the alloy lid for now. It is quite flimsy, moreso than I remebered since the last ones I had (all repaired to some extent)

    He also wants to make the covers for the fog light openings and torsion bar caps in the rear fenders in aluminum, to have some bespoke parts. I am hoping to convince him to tackle the fuel filler lid as well.

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