To resort to a conventional ignition you will also have to install a condenser in the circuit, and no, that coil's windings are not the correct ratio for a non-CD system. I still want to check stuff like rotor resistance when the problem occurs, when the rotor is hot. I would install a temporary tee in the return side from the filter, where you measured the check valve pressure of 12 or so psi. Run a fuel line into the car so you can read the fuel pressure WHEN the problem starts. I'd also run a timing light into the car so you can see if it is ignition or fuel that quits with time and temperature. As I recall you had once run it from a temporary fuel can source so you have ruled out fuel tank and filter/line problems at least back to the fuel pump. Correct? Have you also checked for ground circuit from CD box to the ground stud on the fender behind the fuel filter? I don't think I've really checked the wiring to the coil for temperature so can't say whats normal, but heat tells me there is a ground issue some place. Did you once say you have used ohm meter to check resistance of the transmission ground strap to the body stud?