1968 Rear Window Install Made Easy

[spb350]

I thought I would post about my rear window install as it was not the nightmare I had been reading about. Perhaps some of the things I did will help the next person out as I found it to be very easy and managed to get it done in one try and its my first ever attempt.

First thing is of course to get the seal and trim installed on the glass, it takes some time, but, get it right to make the job a lot easier. Add tape to the corners and middle.

Second I stretched the rubber channel where the cord goes. I bent the flap that goes over the flange completely open, this gets rid of the initial resistance of the rubber to go over the flange. Again this takes time to go all the way around but as you are bending the flap insert the cord. I went two times around with the cord starting and ending at the top. Make sure you remember which end to start pulling first (last in first out). If you pull the wrong one it wont work and you'll have to start over.

Next, I used Dawn dish soap and water to make a solution which is sprayed heavily on the rubber and the car. You want a solution that is not going to dry to quickly so 10% soap, 90% water.

Next, place the window in the channel and get it square so all the rubber looks uniform all the way around.

Next, I took my come-a-long and attached it to a clamp I bought at Walmart for $8. Make sure to get the clamp centered side to side and about 1/3 or so from the top (see pic). CAUTION CAUTION CAUTION! Do not tighten the come-a-long to tight or I think you will be looking for a new window. I tightened it a little at a time then went out and push on the glass to help seat it. Keep an eye on the inner seal and when its touching the flange all the way around its tight enough.

Now its time to start pulling the string. Start very slow, make sure the cord is pulling the rubber over the flange. At the top I would only pull about 4 inches and then push from the outside to help it seat. Repeat 4 inches, push from outside, once the top is mostly in, start pulling the corners, again only pull a little bit then push on the outside. Before I pulled the cord at the bottom I put another notch on the come-a-long to re-tension it.

So, slowly pull the string all the way a around once and look for any areas where the rubber didn't go over the flange. You can try to pry it over with a small tool or be very careful when you come around the second time with the cord. There was only one spot while doing mine where I needed the second wrap but I'm glad I had it.

Well that's it, not very hard at all. I did the front pretty much the same way. You only want the come-a-long to put tension on the glass, do not over tighten! and make sure the clamp (suction cup) is centered to where its pulling equally on the entire piece of glass, watch where the inner seal is touching the flange it should be touching the same all the way around.

I hope this helps some of you out, I know it saved me over $300.

[spb350]

Last pic showing seal done.

[Jim Morris]

Very helpful and encouraging to those many who might have been afraid of the rear window install. Thank you.

[Rick Cabell]

Great idea on how to hold the window down in place to make it a one man job.

[356rider]

I like the suction cup idea on the rear, however there is a huge difference in how much stress the rear tempered and front laminate glass can take. I would not recommend the suction cup/come along on the front. You might get away with it if you are exceedingly gentle but the safety margin is very small and not worth the risk. It only takes a very small amount of stress to crack the front windshield and ruin your day/wallet. You can beat the hell out of the rear glass as usually only a very sharp, hard blow will break it.

[Arne]

What diameter rope did you use? I've seen numerous write-ups of this, no one ever identifies the rope size.

I've got both front and rear to go in soon (after I finish the headliner), and was planning on paying a mobile glass tech to do them. But maybe I could do it myself, or better yet with a helper instead of the come-along.

In my case, the other complicating factor is the 2-stage defroster wiring, which runs up and inside the glass channel in the rubber. Seems like that is going to be a large PITA.

[Jim Breazeale]

What diameter rope did you use? I've seen numerous write-ups of this, no one ever identifies the rope size.

I've got both front and rear to go in soon (after I finish the headliner), and was planning on paying a mobile glass tech to do them. But maybe I could do it myself, or better yet with a helper instead of the come-along.

In my case, the other complicating factor is the 2-stage defroster wiring, which runs up and inside the glass channel in the rubber. Seems like that is going to be a large PITA.

Forget the 2 stage wiring for the back glass. There is a 99% chance that the glass doesn't work, anyway.

Regards

Jim

[Arne]

Forget the 2 stage wiring for the back glass. There is a 99% chance that the glass doesn't work, anyway.

Tested and works well. Needed for wet season driving here in Western Oregon.

[Jim Breazeale]

Tested and works well. Needed for wet season driving here in Western Oregon.

Wow, you are one of the few.

Regards

Jim
PS: Use the pro installer. Installing it ain't that hard. Making sure that it won't leak is the key.

[spb350]

The cord is approx 1/8”. I used the same process on the front and it worked fine. Yes, going slow is the most important thing when using the come-a-long. Tighten one notch and then gently push from the outside working it deeper into the channel until the seal is touching the flange all the way around. Placement of the suction cup is very important to get the glass sucked down equally. Go slow