Accelerator linkage adjustment

[SFE]

The new connecting piece has a metallic retaining sleeve so there will be a fail safe if the rubber isolator breaks, good idea.



The adverse result of this new design is due to its weight increasement because now there may be some friction with the transmission carrier :



After a quite long time of optimisation of all the linkage following step by step Edmayo's advice, I think I've eliminated the friction, or at least minimized it.
On this video you can observe how it works :

https://youtube.com/shorts/vkge-YbxIvU

[HarryD]

The new connecting piece has a metallic retaining sleeve so there will be a fail safe if the rubber isolator breaks, good idea.



The adverse result of this new design is due to its weight increasement because now there may be some friction with the transmission carrier :



After a quite long time of optimisation of all the linkage following step by step Edmayo's advice, I think I've eliminated the friction, or at least minimized it.
On this video you can observe how it works :
It
https://youtube.com/shorts/vkge-YbxIvU

FWIW, when I installed the new snubber on my car, I installed it the same way the original one was installed with the entire part inside the rubber boot. The indentation in the cover is captured at the narrow end of the boot. This should prevent the issue you note.

[SFE]

FWIW, when I installed the new snubber on my car, I installed it the same way the original one was installed with the entire part inside the rubber boot. The indentation in the cover is captured at the narrow end of the boot. This should prevent the issue you note.

On my car the rubber boot seems to be too short in order to be able to do that.

[edmayo]

If the throttle is hesitant to come all the way back when slowly released the pedal it self may be the culprit. It is actually part of the return spring process. As the pedal ages it loses that return springiness. The problem like so many parts these days is cheap aisian copies may not have that built in springiness like an original pedal from the 70's.

[HarryD]

On my car the rubber boot seems to be too short in order to be able to do that.

Looking at your picture above, it looks like the indented end is facing the front of the car. In mine it is flipped with the indent facing the rear and that enable me to put the entire unit inside the boot.

[SFE]

If the throttle is hesitant to come all the way back when slowly released the pedal it self may be the culprit. It is actually part of the return spring process. As the pedal ages it loses that return springiness. The problem like so many parts these days is cheap aisian copies may not have that built in springiness like an original pedal from the 70's.

Definitely agree Ed...

Even some OEM parts are made in china like those basic black circular relay...and their reliability is very poor !

You're right for the pedal (right...as always !), also the carpet you put behind the pedal helps for the return spring process !

[SFE]

Looking at your picture above, it looks like the indented end is facing the front of the car. In mine it is flipped with the indent facing the rear and that enable me to put the entire unit inside the boot.

Humm...interesting so who is right ???

I know at least 3 1969 911E which have the same mounting but you never know !

[HarryD]

Humm...interesting so who is right ???

I know at least 3 1969 911E which have the same mounting but you never know !

Hmmmm. Interesting. The old, non-cased one, did not have an indent. It was entirely inside the boot which is why I put the new, cased on inside the boot with the indent facing the rear. I hope Ed will weigh in on this topic.

My coupler failure was at a race track 3 hours from home. It looked like this.





Being I needed to be able to get my car home, I figured I needed a quick fix. Fortunately, AR Motorsports (Portland Oregon) was on site for driver support and emergency repairs. I showed them the two parts and how I needed to make them one. They had some safety wire so I would be able to hold the two parts together. I did an "arts and crafts" project.



Note the new part has the rubber encased on a metal sleeve to keep the ends from separating from the body and the indent at one end to let the boot hold it in place.

[SFE]

Hmmmm. Interesting. The old, non-cased one, did not have an indent. It was entirely inside the boot which is why I put the new, cased on inside the boot with the indent facing the rear. I hope Ed will weigh in on this topic.

Harry your mounting makes sens, but in our case the boot would be too short to put the cased one inside !

[HarryD]

Harry your mounting makes sens, but in our case the boot would be too short to put the cased one inside !

Interesting. I hope Ed weighs in. I find that ignoring the advice of people like Ed is dangerous to the health of my 911.