New Member (hello world) question about a motor

[Bullethead]

Good link, Tom... another great source is Gene Berg http://www.geneberg.com/index.php

Gene was a drag racing legend and genius with VW engines, his tech articles are must read info for T3 and 4 engines. He's no longer with us but his sons are tremendously helpful.
The biggest improvement comes from balancing. I bought their big bore kit which included a new (Brazil) milled case, Mahle P&Cs, doweled and counter-weighted crank, and sent them both
fans for welding and balancing. With reworked heads and a stock "S" cam, the engine is smooth and strong throughout the considerably extended rev range.

Here's a neat trick to monitor head and oil temps: a $25 Bluetooth oven thermometer. The fourth probe is engine compartment temp, top left is oil, top right and bottom left are heads.

Be sure to install a working thermostat, oil-cooled engines need heat!

[sithot]

Good link, Tom... another great source is Gene Berg http://www.geneberg.com/index.php

Gene was a drag racing legend and genius with VW engines, his tech articles are must read info for T3 and 4 engines. He's no longer with us but his sons are tremendously helpful.
The biggest improvement comes from balancing. I bought their big bore kit which included a new (Brazil) milled case, Mahle P&Cs, doweled and counter-weighted crank, and sent them both
fans for welding and balancing. With reworked heads and a stock "S" cam, the engine is smooth and strong throughout the considerably extended rev range.

Here's a neat trick to monitor head and oil temps: a $25 Bluetooth oven thermometer. The fourth probe is engine compartment temp, top left is oil, top right and bottom left are heads.

Be sure to install a working thermostat, oil-cooled engines need heat!

Gene Berg is a legend! Glad to hear the sons are carrying the torch.

[Kami9a]

@raspritz I am at a point in my build where it would not take much work to leave the flanges for the 4cyl. motor or cut them off and weld on the 6cyl. flanges, other than that change the cars are to my knowledge identical. (Tachometer would need a mod to read engine RPM, oil cooler would be added, I think there are a few other small things) my car is a shell on a dolly and I’m replacing floors and a bunch of other sheet metal parts so making the decision now would be the best time to do it.

@adam912 thank you for the advice I will check out “912bbs.org/forum” and look for the “renegades“ section! (The type 4 motor was my original plan, the 6cyl. idea was just because I initially was looking for a 911 not a 912) thanks!

@richy honestly I would agree but with 911 long hood prices now, I can’t touch one worth touching... lol so I bought a 912 shell to start.

@sithot thank you for the welcome! I will check out “type4store.com”! I have heard a lot about Jake Raby and I have spoken to FAT (they are charging a lot to build a motor nowadays) think I’m going to go with a 2.6L already had FAT do the heads just need to buy the rest of the parts and build it I guess,

@bullethead the thermometers are a great piece of advice I have been told that by several builders and particularly to use stick on thermocouples at certain cylinder locations for best signs of problems.
I will make sure to add www.geneberg.com to the list of sites to explore!

I guess now that I know I’m going to sell this motor, anyone have a price range I should be asking for it? What do they typically sell for?

Thanks!!!!!

[Kami9a]

Hello, just wanted to give an update, going to take the motor to a local shop and have them do an inspection, compression and leak down test on the 2.4L motor and I’ll be posting it up on Bring-A-Trailer, please let me know if you have any idea on the price I should be looking to get for it.

Thanks!!!!