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Thread: Throttle Linkage length - 1971

  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by gled49 View Post
    Just a little fyi.
    Which lever is for MFI and which one is for Carbs on your last picture ???

  2. #22
    Member #226 R Gruppe Life Member #147
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    I had these, took pics and measured them for data. I have a 70S Outlaw with a HBF big block and 915. I found one of the 901/911 throttle bell cranks lined up better with tunnel rod, so with trial and error I pass the FTC (full throttle check).
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    Last edited by 72targa; 03-04-2024 at 03:39 AM. Reason: Photo rotation

  3. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Flieger View Post
    Planning a rehab of the pedal cluster and throttle linkage on my '71 and came across this thread. I was just wondering how best to pop the ball joint apart (is it simple as using some leverage or is there some sort of clip to remove?) but now I'm wondering if I'm getting full throttle. My car has MFI but has the shorter bell crank. It seems to have plenty of power but I don't drive other early 911s, and my car has seen a lot of things over the years that I don't know about. What's the best way to tell if I'm getting full throttle?

    Right now I'm chasing what seems to be excessive friction in the system which I think is either pedal bushings or something to do with the linkage (which looks to be kinked). I'm planning to replace the center tunnel linkage- I had just replaced the bushings (which were missing) the other day but that seemed to make things a bit worse actually.
    To check for full throttle have some one hold the throttle pedal down while you look down the stacks ( or use a pedal depressor tool for one man checking). To pop off the ball socket (unless its the later locking one) I use a thin 10 mm open end wrench to lever it off. If later locking ball socket you have to remove the lock clip first.
    Early S Registry member #90
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  4. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by edmayo View Post
    To check for full throttle have some one hold the throttle pedal down while you look down the stacks ( or use a pedal depressor tool for one man checking). To pop off the ball socket (unless its the later locking one) I use a thin 10 mm open end wrench to lever it off. If later locking ball socket you have to remove the lock clip first.
    Thanks!

    I probable should mention I don't have a floorboard but things I think were setup for that, so perhaps my pedal travels further than it should and that makes up for the shorter bellcrank?
    1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened
    Early 911S Registry Member #425

  5. #25
    You should always have a throttle pedal stop, otherwise how do you know how far you're pushing the linkage. Without a stop you can seriously stress the linkage and break or cause links to pop off.
    Early S Registry member #90
    R Gruppe member #138
    Fort Worth Tx.

  6. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by gled49 View Post
    Just a little fyi.
    Ok, what are the applications for each of the bell cranks in the pictures. (Years and MFI / Carbs?)

  7. #27
    Member #226 R Gruppe Life Member #147
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    I don’t know, I had them, photo them, measured them. Mu setup was trial and error till I got FTC. Because I don’t run floorboards, I made a hard pedal stop that the gas pedal bell crank hits squarely. With someone giving me full throttle in the car I move the crossbar on the engine to see if there’s something left. I don’t run it tight, more like 98%, just a little movement left in the crossbar. Check out my throttle stop. Just a bolt with nuts top and bottom.
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    Last edited by 72targa; 03-08-2024 at 09:50 PM. Reason: Photo rotation

  8. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by gled49 View Post
    I don’t know, I had them, photo them, measured them. Mu setup was trial and error till I got FTC. Because I don’t run floorboards, I made a hard pedal stop that the gas pedal bell crank hits squarely. With someone giving me full throttle in the car I move the crossbar on the engine to see if there’s something left. I don’t run it tight, more like 98%, just a little movement left in the crossbar. Check out my throttle stop. Just a bolt with nuts top and bottom.
    Thanks!

    As a small update for anyone wondering, I disconnected the bellcrank at the pedal cluster and it seems like the friction of the cluster is the main contributor to the sluggish return, so time for a rebuild. I will do the full throttle/overtravel check too.
    1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened
    Early 911S Registry Member #425

  9. #29
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by gled49 View Post
    I don’t know, I had them, photo them, measured them. Mu setup was trial and error till I got FTC. Because I don’t run floorboards, I made a hard pedal stop that the gas pedal bell crank hits squarely. With someone giving me full throttle in the car I move the crossbar on the engine to see if there’s something left. I don’t run it tight, more like 98%, just a little movement left in the crossbar. Check out my throttle stop. Just a bolt with nuts top and bottom.
    How do you control clutch pedal travel without a floorboard stop?
    Bert Jayasekera
    1970 911T - Tangerine Orange
    Early 911S Registry #494
    R Gruppe #167

  10. #30
    Member #226 R Gruppe Life Member #147
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    If you over throw the clutch the release fork will leave radial marks on the diaphragm, no marks no problem.
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