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Thread: 1970 911T turn signal switch...Stuck!

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  1. #1
    Member Tremelune's Avatar
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    Angry 1970 911T turn signal switch...Stuck!

    My blinker switch is getting progressively stiffer...The other day it simply would not move up to turn on the right signal, despite some real force. It usually will, with a heavy click, but then it just got stuck one day. it seems to have fixed itself today, but it's still very stiff mechanically—and not like there's gunk or friction, but like there's a piece of metal that is just a bit too in the way of the movement. I'm a bit nervous to pull the wheel, take it apart, and have it crumble on my bench...

    Electrically, everything seems to be working correctly.

    Questions:

    - Are these repairable?

    - What years are compatible with 1970? What if I'm willing to cut/splice?

    - Am I really on the hook for hundreds of dollars to replace this thing? I care about quality, but not originality so much.

    - Anything I should do while I'm in there? I don't know if self-cancel works, because the action is always so stiff that I have my hand on it...

    I found a new one on Pelican, but I'm guessing it's both different from the original, but still just as expensive:

    https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...=c&SVSVSI=4231

  2. #2
    Senior Member bob joyce's Avatar
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    there are 2 springs that make the stalk return to neutral
    you probably have a broken spring that is causing the problem
    no big deal

  3. #3
    Member Tremelune's Avatar
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    You mean like the springs broke and are jammed in there somewhere??

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tremelune View Post
    My blinker switch is getting progressively stiffer...The other day it simply would not move up to turn on the right signal, despite some real force. It usually will, with a heavy click, but then it just got stuck one day. it seems to have fixed itself today, but it's still very stiff mechanically—and not like there's gunk or friction, but like there's a piece of metal that is just a bit too in the way of the movement. I'm a bit nervous to pull the wheel, take it apart, and have it crumble on my bench...

    Electrically, everything seems to be working correctly.

    Questions:

    - Are these repairable?

    - What years are compatible with 1970? What if I'm willing to cut/splice?

    - Am I really on the hook for hundreds of dollars to replace this thing? I care about quality, but not originality so much.

    - Anything I should do while I'm in there? I don't know if self-cancel works, because the action is always so stiff that I have my hand on it...

    I found a new one on Pelican, but I'm guessing it's both different from the original, but still just as expensive:

    https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...=c&SVSVSI=4231
    1970 turn signal switches are "one year only" and there is no really good replacement that I know of. I would remove your switch, make sure that the 3 springs are in good shape and, lastly and most important, get a spray can of CorrosionX at your local hardware, boating supply or fishing store and spray the whole switch, not to include the arm or knob. You will then have a switch that will work like new.

    Regards

    Jim

  5. #5
    Senior Member ejboyd5's Avatar
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    Corrosion X is a marvelous substance. I've used it for years in both marine and automotive applications. It's a shame that more people don't know about it as it really does all the intended things for which WD-40 is misapplied. Treat yourself to a red can; you will not be disappointed.

  6. #6
    Can I spray my switch “in situ”?

    https://www.westmarine.com/corrosion...z.-699660.html
    Peter Kane

    '72 911S Targa
    Message Board Co-Moderator - Early 911S Registry #100

  7. #7
    Senior Member ejboyd5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 72targa View Post
    Can I spray my switch “in situ”?
    https://www.westmarine.com/corrosion...z.-699660.html
    You can, but it sounds as if the original poster may have some form of mechanical obstruction that he should investigate before using the Corrosion X. If your switch is working properly, the Corrosion X will help to preserve its functioning.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ejboyd5 View Post
    Corrosion X is a marvelous substance. I've used it for years in both marine and automotive applications. It's a shame that more people don't know about it as it really does all the intended things for which WD-40 is misapplied. Treat yourself to a red can; you will not be disappointed.
    I have not used Corrosion X but an alternative that I love is BOESHIELD T-9. In the 70's Boeing used LPS-3 as a corrosion prevention spray and dip. It leave a waxy film when dried and works very well in enclosed areas. It was an inconsistent product so Boeing developed this T-9 product. (I was in the Air Force as a corrosion engineer for the B-52 and the KC-135-both are still flying!) while the LPS-3 was being used. T-9 does everything you want it to do, lubricant, corrosion protectant, spray on, and dries-so no dirt sticks, available on Amazon-of course!.
    I know Boeing has a bad reputation now but having dealt with them in the 70's and 2010's, their problems are not being ignorant of problems nor poor engineering but not following their own rules.
    Steve

  9. #9
    Member Tremelune's Avatar
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    The switch seized up again after a few days. I doused it in Corrosion X and now it's in the car and operating smoothly!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tremelune View Post
    The switch seized up again after a few days. I doused it in Corrosion X and now it's in the car and operating smoothly!
    You’re welcome!

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