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Thread: 1970 911T turn signal switch...Stuck!

  1. #1
    Member Tremelune's Avatar
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    Angry 1970 911T turn signal switch...Stuck!

    My blinker switch is getting progressively stiffer...The other day it simply would not move up to turn on the right signal, despite some real force. It usually will, with a heavy click, but then it just got stuck one day. it seems to have fixed itself today, but it's still very stiff mechanically—and not like there's gunk or friction, but like there's a piece of metal that is just a bit too in the way of the movement. I'm a bit nervous to pull the wheel, take it apart, and have it crumble on my bench...

    Electrically, everything seems to be working correctly.

    Questions:

    - Are these repairable?

    - What years are compatible with 1970? What if I'm willing to cut/splice?

    - Am I really on the hook for hundreds of dollars to replace this thing? I care about quality, but not originality so much.

    - Anything I should do while I'm in there? I don't know if self-cancel works, because the action is always so stiff that I have my hand on it...

    I found a new one on Pelican, but I'm guessing it's both different from the original, but still just as expensive:

    https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...=c&SVSVSI=4231

  2. #2
    Senior Member bob joyce's Avatar
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    there are 2 springs that make the stalk return to neutral
    you probably have a broken spring that is causing the problem
    no big deal

  3. #3
    Member Tremelune's Avatar
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    You mean like the springs broke and are jammed in there somewhere??

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tremelune View Post
    My blinker switch is getting progressively stiffer...The other day it simply would not move up to turn on the right signal, despite some real force. It usually will, with a heavy click, but then it just got stuck one day. it seems to have fixed itself today, but it's still very stiff mechanically—and not like there's gunk or friction, but like there's a piece of metal that is just a bit too in the way of the movement. I'm a bit nervous to pull the wheel, take it apart, and have it crumble on my bench...

    Electrically, everything seems to be working correctly.

    Questions:

    - Are these repairable?

    - What years are compatible with 1970? What if I'm willing to cut/splice?

    - Am I really on the hook for hundreds of dollars to replace this thing? I care about quality, but not originality so much.

    - Anything I should do while I'm in there? I don't know if self-cancel works, because the action is always so stiff that I have my hand on it...

    I found a new one on Pelican, but I'm guessing it's both different from the original, but still just as expensive:

    https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...=c&SVSVSI=4231
    1970 turn signal switches are "one year only" and there is no really good replacement that I know of. I would remove your switch, make sure that the 3 springs are in good shape and, lastly and most important, get a spray can of CorrosionX at your local hardware, boating supply or fishing store and spray the whole switch, not to include the arm or knob. You will then have a switch that will work like new.

    Regards

    Jim

  5. #5
    Senior Member ejboyd5's Avatar
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    Corrosion X is a marvelous substance. I've used it for years in both marine and automotive applications. It's a shame that more people don't know about it as it really does all the intended things for which WD-40 is misapplied. Treat yourself to a red can; you will not be disappointed.

  6. #6
    Can I spray my switch “in situ”?

    https://www.westmarine.com/corrosion...z.-699660.html
    Peter Kane

    '72 911S Targa
    Message Board Co-Moderator - Early 911S Registry #100

  7. #7
    Senior Member ejboyd5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 72targa View Post
    Can I spray my switch “in situ”?
    https://www.westmarine.com/corrosion...z.-699660.html
    You can, but it sounds as if the original poster may have some form of mechanical obstruction that he should investigate before using the Corrosion X. If your switch is working properly, the Corrosion X will help to preserve its functioning.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Breazeale View Post
    1970 turn signal switches are "one year only" and there is no really good replacement that I know of. I would remove your switch, make sure that the 3 springs are in good shape and, lastly and most important, get a spray can of CorrosionX at your local hardware, boating supply or fishing store and spray the whole switch, not to include the arm or knob. You will then have a switch that will work like new.

    Regards

    Jim
    I am dead wrong! I just reread this post and realized that the wiper switch is “one year only”, not the turn signal switch. The turn signal switch can be interchanged with any 70 thru 73 switch. The 69 switch has a different part number but is identical and can be used, as well. The replacement switches used to come with a completely different arm and the actual switch mechanism was made from plastic. Much like the 74 and later switches that go bad on a regular basis. Sorry for the mis information.

    Jim

  9. #9
    Member Tremelune's Avatar
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    Ha! Well, I'm much more impressed that you actually corrected your misinformation! That's the bit that doesn't usually happen...

    I'm gonna take this thing apart today and see what I'm working with.

  10. #10
    Member Tremelune's Avatar
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    Arright, well. The good news is that I managed to get the switch it out (which involved an impact gun, 3-jaw puller, and removing a secret kill switch that was bolted through with a nut that could only be reached by going waaay back into the cowl from the frunk with a magnet to hold it in place while I unscrewed it from under the dash). The bad news is that it looks fine.

    I'm gonna spray it with carb cleaner, DeoxIT, and maybe FluidFilm...but if it doesn't start to move freely...Well. It sure looks like a delicate $500 thing to disassemble (and reassemble!). All tips appreciated...


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