ride

[deoxford]

I wonder how bad my early T will perform , not in engine power
but how will it handle corners.

What can be done to tighten it up?( not a soft ride)
Also what can I do to lower it and level it out a little


__________________

[admin_old]

No comments yet?

If your T is comletely factory stock, you will have no sway bars and minimal wheels/tires. In this case, anything you do will be an improvement over this version.

Here's an abbreviated answer (MHO) on a subject that generates a lot of discussion:

For an early 911, here's a recommended sequence of upgrade paths. They're all important so you should end up with them all at a certain point in time.

Replace worn out bushings (factory or aftermarket)
Torsion bars (21mm F, 26mm R), adjust ride height and align
HD shocks (Bilstein or Koni)
Adjustable sway bars, frt/rear
Corner balance and align

Somewhere in there you could maximize wheel widths and install "better" tires. Once you get to this point, you'll have a very nice handling car - what driving a Porsche is really about.

Should you decide to go beyond a street setup, contact John Risvold, Mike Gagen, Tom Tweed, or any one of several contributors to this forum.

Sherwood








he most effective suspension upgrade would be to install larger torsion bars. H

[nick-moss]

I would agree with Sherwood but I would fit stiffer dampers before fitting stiffer torsion bars. Stiff suspension with soft damping is recipe for bouncing off the road. Look at rally cars to se how stiff dampers and relatively soft suspension works.

[admin_old]

Hi Nick,
I suggest they should be installed in close time proximity.

Sherwood

[deoxford]

Well I start on one of the steps you listed
I got a set of 6x15 fuchs and 7x15 fuchs soon for the rear

I hope to change the bars out soon , but there is alot to chose from and I am looking at my options still, any thoughts?

[admin_old]

Lots of options? Either solid or hollow. Many sizes? For street. 21-26 or 21-27, frt/rear. Anything more in an early car and the ride crosses over from firm to fairly stiff. Do you have fillings in your teeth?

Sherwood

[silver911]

Just a quick note,

I'd get the bushings, dampers, torsion bars sorted before jumping to wider wheels.

Its amazing how well they handle when set up as per factory spec but with modern tyres.

They might not have theout rigth grip of a lower ricer but they are far better handliung.

They 'talk' to you much more and have far greater subtly inthier driving qualities.

Plus all of this can be done a 'legal' speeds rather than a warp one on the road.

Just my .02....

[deoxford]

Ok no fillings , so whats the difference solid and hollow, besides that they maybe solid and hollow, does the hollow allow more play?

[Gburner]

Originally posted by deoxford
Ok no fillings , so whats the difference solid and hollow, besides that they maybe solid and hollow, does the hollow allow more play?

According to thre Smart racing catalog....
Hollow bars are best for a lighter 1800lb car looking to shed every ounce possible. Hollow bars on normal weight cars would be a waste of money. The solid bar should be fine for you.
I agree with Sherwood's combo too.
Before you do anything it would be a good idea to visit your local PCA AX or DE/TT events and talk to some of the local 911 guys. You could maybe get a ride in some stiffly sprung cars to help in your decision process.

These cars are fun to drive stock but with upgraded suspensions they can be made to corner much better.

[deoxford]

thanks , I would like to to talk to some local guys , but there are very few Porsches down here in South Alabama.

So I need to go with solid, and good new tires, and bushings to start off with
Rubber bushings should be good right?