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Thread: Car alarm for you Early 911???

  1. #11
    I would think Evren has pretty good protection...German Shepherd. Count me among those who keeps the car in sight...unless it's in my locked & alarmed garage.
    Paul D. Early S Registry #8 - Cyclops Minister of West Coast Affairs
    "Now, to put a water-cooled engine in the rear and to have the radiator in the front, that's not very intelligent." -Ferry Porsche (PANO, Oct. 1973)

  2. #12
    go to this page... http://members.aol.com/gunghey/questions.html and scroll down to October 5, 1998...

  3. #13
    oh... and I've built those before for a different purpose... miniaturized radio controlled 7 foot helium mini blimp toy... blinking lights on it blinking at different rates for the aircraft collision lights and marker beacons and stuff....

    first thing... 1) dont use the "led with the blinker already in it" to replace your existing LED or to add a blinking LED.... when sunlight hits it the circuit is so sensitive that the light stays on until it darkens up some outside.... kinda defeats the purpose.

    2) resist the urge to connect the 1.5-2 volt circuit to your car power... 12 volts will fry it nicely.... plus it'll blow up the led (not literally) most LED's have maximums around 1.5-5 volts. There's a few odd 12 volt LED's on the market... etc..etc.. As they say though... it DOES make it use more power out of your car battery if you do that or you need a bigger battery to run it.

    Easiest thing is take a C or D cell... get a plastic socket thing for it... get velcro'd down to somewhere out of sight but easy to get to or some other creative adhesive/screw down/whatever thing. Wire up the circuit. You dont even need to hook it to one of those circuit board things. just make sure things are trimmed as short as possible that still gives contact and does not allow bare metal to touch bare metal and then seal it with some sort of heat shrink tubing over the metal... and then goo some hot melt glue around all the edges of the chip where the wires are soldered down and not covered by heat shrink tube so they dont make contact with the car body. Use whatever wire the LED has already that's in the car and attach the circuit in that area before you hot melt glue it. If you can find some sorta male/female end connectors to hook those together then that would be best so as to not accidentally get hot melt glue on the inside of your car by accident....

  4. #14
    Blessed be the lowered RickS's Avatar
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    IBRITISH,

    You have a great solution to the paradox of the battery cut-off switch and flashing LED. One can have their cake and flash it too.
    71 914 3.0, 82 SC, ESR 376, RG 307

    "The problem with the world is, the ignorant are cock-sure and the intelligent are full of doubt." Bertram Russell

  5. #15

    what about the...

    hidden kill (or dead man) switch? The secret cut off switch. These are popular for theft deterence, as Jack mentioned.

    I used to just take the center distributor to coil wire with me. It is short and easy to reattach.

    But, I do have a long roadtrip planned. (Seattle to Phoenix) If I elect to intall a hidden switch to close an electric current..where would this best placed?

    Thanks in advance, Shawn.
    67 coupe roller
    99 M96 2.5 litre
    early911s reg 447
    R Gruppe 399

  6. #16
    Pull the fuel pump relay.

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