Is it too Rich?

[LeafGreen]

Derek,

Don't mess with the rack adjustment (under the allen/hex screw on the pump) or the idle CO, at least not yet - Let's make sure everything else is working before you diddle with the pump adjustments. Also, the car must be completely warmed up, the cold start is off or the line is pinched off, and the thermostat confirmed in the full lean position before we can assess the mixture condition.

Something else to think about...... Did you remove the throttle valves and/or take apart the throttle linkage rods and reinstall them at some point? If so, did you reinstall them exactly as they were? (Assuming they were correct before or the car just ran ok then), because if you have any doubt, the throttle valves should be set up. If you need help setting up the individual throttle valves, let me know, because I came up with a sleezy way of doing a rough adjustment with the engine cold and not running. I did this to my car and it made all the difference in the off idle transition. The position of the throttle valves relative to the pump lever and ignition timing all have a huge effect on mixture during the transition from idle to light cruise.

The micro switch should be "on" at idle stop. The adjustment is explained in the CMA manual. Unles it's hanging up the throttle linkage, I wouldn't worry about it right now.

Here are the pictures of the clutch fork and cable routing. My clutch grabs several inches off the floor, with a minimal amount of freeplay at the top (1" or so).

[deoxford]

Alex,
Thanks for the pic, i really need to adjust mine a lot more.

Also I found that the switch was in the off postion, if being off means that there is nothing touching the switch . I adjusted the screw till it touched the switch as in the CMA.

I also drained the oil and replaced it today. Then removed and clean , and checked the thermostat . I will lift the car in the moring and make sure that the piping is all correct agian. I felt on the exit of the thermostat and I did not feel anyhot air coming out,

I will let you know what I fine.
thanks
Derek

[GB68]

Derek,

To jump in here as a long-time 356 owner, I'd bet that adjusting the arc in the cable will really help the stalling. You have to have the arc in there and I would guess it bends maybe 3 inches based on my '68. In a 356, if you replace the cable and get it wrong, the car shifts into reverse ok but lurches (and worse) when shifting into first which sounds very familiar based on your post. Also the pedal action just won't adjust properly which is also an indicator. I am not familiar with the fuel injection system but I'd get the clutch right and go from there. OK, I'll get back to my "old car" corner now.

Galen
GB68
'68 911
'55 Speedster
'59 S/R coupe
'64 Cab
'04 Cayenne

[deoxford]

Galen
Thanks for the help, I did put the cable in the correct place, and I think you are right that the clutch adjustment is one of the key things now. It really is a stalling issue now, so we are moving foward....slowly.
Thanks
Derek

[deoxford]

ALex,
Update=
1.Today,I found that the rubber hose under the engine going to the Thermostat was bad= replaced it
2. Drove car =still stalled
3. Adjusted the clutch again
4. When the car was still on the jack stands with the tires off, started the car and put it in gear. MAn it made alot of noise in all the foward gears.
But not in Reverse.
5.Removed both half shafts
6. Ran car on the air again=not as noisy but there was still some noise

7. figured the half shafts may be bad so I Put the right on the left and the left on the right.

8. before step "7" I checked to see if the hubs made any noise= No noise.

9.CLeaned both half shaft and but them back on

10. started the car again , noisy in all foward gears. So I say@#$*!!!!!

11. I guess maybe the trans or the transaxle bad.

12. I but the tires back on, clean up and lower the car.

13. I say what the hell, lets try it again. And it WORKED!!! NO bucking
I drove it for the first time with it not bucking,
This is what i noticed
a. I had a bad miss, and a little back first
b. It was quick off the line but you could not get the rmps' up past 3000 in first
c.Lots of smoke

Also I forgot to say that Before all of this today I removed the Thermostat and clean it . I also changed the oil as per Grady's orders.

So what do you think, maybe I getting close?
why all the smoke? why can't get it over 3000 to 3200 .
Does a trans make that much noise with the tires off?


Thanks
Derek

[LeafGreen]

Derek,

Good, it sounds like you got the clutch straightened out, now let’s see about the rest.

A while back, I ran my car in gear with the rear wheels off the ground, and it sounded normal - mostly engine noise. What kind of tranny noise do you have? High pitch whine? Growl? My tranny was bad when I got my car - it made a fairly loud whine under load in second and third gear. It didn't sound like bearings to me, so I figured it was worn gear teeth. Well, I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen them, but the gears were wasted!

About the smoke...Is it black smoke out the exhaust? Oil smoke out the exhaust?

The miss could be ignition problems. How are the wires? Plugs? Points? Are the points adjusted correctly? Try switching the condenser with a known good one.

[deoxford]

Alex,
The trans noise was a klancking? noise. WHen I took the half shafts off an reversed them the was a liitle dull noise from the trans and I checked the hubs and they were quite. Thn put the half shafts back on and the same noise.
At that point I knew it was not the half shafts, Funny thing was when I put the tires back on , there was no real noise.

I think the trans or tran axel is going or is bad but i don't think that is causing the proulbems

As for the smoke it is gray in color.

Thanks
Derek

[LeafGreen]

Derek,

If your trans has clunking noises no doubt it needs attention, but before you go tearing it out, try to do some more thorough investigation, but of course more investigation requires that the engine runs properly - sort of a catch-22.

If the gray smoke is for sure not oil, then it must be fuel related. You will just have to take the appropriate steps to diagnose the fuel system problem and fix it - even if it means putting on a set of known working Zeniths or Webbers.

[deoxford]

I was working the MFI, as I was reading the CMA and I noticed the Mirco switch was never being activated.
I adjusted it , Now when at idie the car now hunts between 1200 and 1500 rpm.
I think that I have it wrong, Does the switch stay pressed when the car is idling?
Or does it only get press briefly when the throttle is going to the idling position?
Also In the CMA , it says to drive the car at 2400 rpm to do the CO test is that correct?

One more thing, Man it was fun to drive today, I mean the car really pulls!
And the steering was so tight ,you barely touched the wheel and it went left or right. THe sound was amazing. I have waited two years for that and I can't wait for more!!!!!!

[LeafGreen]

Derek,

See my other post regarding the micro switch. Basically what happens is the micro switch activates the fuel cut off solenoid (located below the thermostat) through the speed switch (located on the relay panel). The switch is held in the ON position when the linkage is at idle position, and its only purpose is to cut fuel when the throttle is at idle stop and the RPM is above ~1400. If you have a surging at idle when the switch is made up, then its possible you are getting 12V to the solenoid below 1400 RPM (verify with a volt meter and/or disconnect the solenoid).

I'm not sure if it is absolutely necessary to adjust the CO under load at 2400 RPM, but I will say trying to get the recommended CO reading while running in neutral results in very poor drivability, at least that's how I see it. It's been my experience that the engine will run rich at 2400 RPM in neutral, but seems to lean out, or have a more correct mixture under a load. Can any one else verify this? Or am I full of you know what.