Accelerator Cable connector broke

[WHCJr72S]

My wife and I left Ventura on Sunday at about 11:00 headed for San Jose. After having lunch in Santa Maria, I was crossing a long bridge on Highway 101, when my 33 year old rubber accelerator cable connector broke. I was able to coast to the end of the bridge, then idled to the very close off ramp and a conviently placed wide parking area. The connector is located above the front transmission cross member. It has a rubber boot that covers it. I had to disconnect the accelerator rod form the pedel assembly and slide it towards the rear of the car, to be able to work on the connector. Using some discarded wire my wife found on the ground (I must put some wire in my tool box), I was able to wire the two parts together to get home. The whole repair took about an hour.

So this is a reminder to all of you who have not replaced this part to do so.

We had a great time in Ventura and at the 15 Anniversery Dinner for the Early 911S Registery. It was great seeing all of my friends and making new ones.

[911pcars]

Bill,
We should interlock little fingers. My throttle cable disconnected on the way to GAF too.

I'm sorta embarrassed to say the uplink from the gearbox bellcrank fell off the ball connector on the carb end. Seems that when this was assembled some years ago, there were only 3 threads engaged in the ball end. Vibration and throttle movement finally wore out the end threads and the parts separated at speed on the 101. Despite a late start, I was making pretty good time when it happened. I managed to coast to an offramp a few miles from Ventura and rolled to a stop in front of an equipment rental store.

I jacked up the rear with my 944 scissors jack (supplemented by a floor jack borrowed from the rental yard). Luckily, nothing fell off and the car didn't fall down. I reconnected the link (>4 threads this time) and made my way to Ventura. I even made it in time to wait for the RGruppe caravan to arrive. I had momentary visions of a flat-bed trip back home.

Sherwood

[WHCJr72S]

Sherwood:
Two for Two on roadside repair, that is great. I was thinking as I repaired my broken cable that most people would have to call AAA. I am glad that both of our problems were easy to repair and did not slow us up to long.

[John Fusco]

Yesterday, at a PCA car control clinic at New Hampshire Speedway - threshold braking drill - also broke at rubber connector.
No jack but with a found piece of wire and some plastic ties; me working from one side of the car and a new buddy (thanks again RJ if you're out there) from the other we got it linked well enough for me to make the 1 1/2 hour trip home easily.

Man that was FUN!!!!

[John Fusco]

By the way, now what? can anyone give me the outline on how to go about the fix ? I've got the Haynes but anything else I should know ?
Is it a good idea to change the cable as well ?

I first checked the pedal and found a small rubber bushing (?) loose on the floor. I assume I should think about rebuilding the pedal cluster ?

Thanks
John

[Aircool]

John,

There is no cable to change, just rods with threaded ends, several ball sockets, and a few bellcranks with bushings. The part number you need is 911.423.081.02. That is the latest version of the metal encased rod link. If the rubber part fails it can only move a little rather than totally disconnect and you can get the thing home. It is probably time to rebuild your pedal cluster with new bushings as well.
Go here:
http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessori...originalparts/

Enter your year. Once it opens up go to Main Group 7 and then illustration 702-00. It will give you an idea what you are dealing with. Along with the pedals, there are a few pieces of linkage with bushings to the rear of the car. Just follow the linkage from the tunnel to the engine and you will see them. I would replace them as well. Clean and lube everything. You can use the bronze bushings or go with original plastic. To me, the bronze changes the feel of the pedals slightly. They don't have quite a soft feel as with the plastic but they never go bad. Make sure when re-installing that you get full travel at the engine. (Both at full throttle and idle.) To check, disconnect the rod at the engine, open the throttle all the way on both the engine and the pedal. Match it up and see if there is a difference at the disconnected rod. If so, adjust the linkage until they match. Make sure you have more than a few threads engaged at the ball socket-see Sherwood's previous post, and don't forget there is an adjustable plastic stop at the pedal end you can work with as well. Check your pedal itself as well. If it sort of grinds rather than moves smoothly, it may need replacing.
You will be amazed at the difference in the feel once you get everything cleaned and freshened up. It takes a bit of time but is definitely worth the effort.

Good luck,

Steve

[John Fusco]

Thanks so much for that info Steve.

I have felt that my throttle seemed a little "sticky" and didn't transition smoothly but I figured it was just "old school technology"
I am learning as I fix the more subtle parts on the car that that old school technology was pretty amazing.
Can't wait to see what it is like when sorted out.

Thanks again;

John

[Aircool]

That is one of the reasons I love these cars. They are so well built and are fantastic when right.
While you are under the car, make sure you clean the tranny ground strap. If it is not making good contact, the electricity will find it's own ground and your clutch cable will most likely be recruited to carry the current. As it does, it becomes very brittle, especially at points where it makes a bend, and it will break. It is on the opposite side of the transaxle from the throttle linkage. Pull it off and clean up the area where it meets the tranny and chassis. If it is torn or tattered replace it. When assembling, put some electric contact grease (vaseline works too) on the connections. I went through two cables in less than six months until I figured it out. Luckily the first was a block from my home, the second, in my driveway. It will save you a lot of trouble down the road.

Also, I was reading through the Stoddard parts manual last night. They have occasional helpful tips throughout. One was, if you use the bronze bushings, soak them in oil overnight before installation. They will be self lubricating once installed.

All the best,

Steve

[John Fusco]

Thanks again Steve, keep those tips coming.
I had the car at the mechanics last week for a tensioner rebuild and collars put on - and told them to check that ground . I read in 101 Proj. book that could happen - asked them to do an inspection while under there .
First thing in my head when the throttle went was "Time I start learning to do this stuff myself ! "
I was also told my car would not have passed inspection for a DE because the battery was not secure (I have the orig. set up) - Any advice for that ?

Thanks again;

John

[Aircool]

Sorry John, I am only familiar with the post 1970 cars. Try Stoddard though. It looks like they still have the strap and cover available. Call them though. They may have everything you need. Here is a link:

http://www.stoddard.com/shop/shopdis...ery+Components

Good luck,

Steve