Early 911s--the "lowdown"--newbie looking for help

[ventoGT]

Hi All--I've been perusing the board for a while and have searched around looking for information but I figured I'd post to see if you could help me out with some things.

I am active on Rennlist and a few other forums, and am an avid Porsche lover [currently have a 1988 M491 cab 3.2 and a 1962 356 T-6B Driver coupe...I have always loved the way the early 911s looked, and may be in the market for one in the upcoming year [I need another car like a bullet in the head, but hey, it's a problem I have]

So, my main questions are:

1. E versus T--Pros/Cons?
2. Maintenance--what is a good amount per year to budget for routine maintenance? I would probably drive the car 3-5,000 Miles/year, at least once a week, probably 2-3 times per week.
3. Engine numbers/decoding originality--There are published lists on the 356 registry of engine ranges for certain years...is there a published article for early 911s as well?
4. Places to look when inspecting a car--the big stuff.

Basically I would be looking for a driver type car in decent condition that I could turn the key and drive now, and put money into as I went along. I hope this post wasn't too long, but any opinions/guidance/suggestions are all greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

[72targa]

Step 1...

http://www.pelicanparts.com/911/tech...uthrie_faq.htm

[ventoGT]

Step 1...

http://www.pelicanparts.com/911/tech...uthrie_faq.htm

Reading it now--thanks for the link

[Intheshop]

IMHO -- cost per year will vary greatly. I have owned by 1971 911T for 19 years. Some years I spend $4,000, some years $500. The first couple of years were wicked expensive (when I could least afford it) -- but after putting about $7,000 into the mechanicals, I have enjoyed a great run -- 2 clutches and one rebuilt transmission, otherwise minor maintenance that on average costs about $1,000 per year.

As for the E vs T -- to each his own. I like the T because it is easy to drive (smooth at 2500 rpms), gets good mpg, and costs less to upkeep and to purchase. Since on the open road the top speed I want to go is only 95-100 mph -- the T can do that easily, so I don't need an E. But if I had the extra money at the time of purchase (I was 22 years old), I doubt I would have turned down the extra horsepower.

As for places to look when buying -- pretty much the same places you looked when buying your 356. Surface rust around headlights, bottom of doors... rust under batteries, front pan, under carpet. PPI on the mechanicals.

My best advice is to buy a car as close to stock as you can find. They have a patina that is hard to replicate. One thing I have enjoyed about my car is that it is bone stock (OK, except for the H1s), and much is originial equipment ... there is a pleasure when you open up the fog lights and find the orginial Hella slip of paper in there -- gives me a connected feeling to the factory.
Good luck,
SCOTT

[pmjt]

3. Engine numbers/decoding originality--There are published lists on the 356 registry of engine ranges for certain years...is there a published article for early 911s as well?

I always refer to the Juergen Barth / Lothar Boschen "The Porsche Book" which provides chassis and engine number ranges for each of the models and years - it's not perfect but it's a good starter

I just did a scan on eBay but couldn't find a copy at the moment - I'm away from home at the moment, but if you're interested I can post the ISBN when I'm home next week.

HTH

Philip

[real550A]

"As for the E vs T--I like the T because--costs less to upkeep"?
That one puzzles me.
Oil change? Air/Oil filter? Valve adjust? Brakes? Where's the difference?
Just curious.

[tom dance]

Any of the early 911's make for a great driver. Either a e or t would work out fine, just go with a 2.2, I like them for the tourgue and revs, a good combo. The E will have a bit more top, the T a bit more low power.
For maintenence I have found the cars to be quite robust. Figure that all cars will need some initial sorting, after that costs will be quite low. I take all my cars to the shop each spring and have them serviced. Rarely anything major, usually about $100 to $300 ea. Once set up they seem to just go and go. Thats why I love these cars. They're fun too.
Tom

[Paul Schooley]

My 71 T (RS wanabe) was knowingly bought requiring some serious mechanical work to make it a great driver. $8000 out of pocket later it is. Other than oil changes and valve adjustments I have done absolutely nothing but enjoy my car for 4 years now.

It's the same old, same old as you already know from your 356's. You either buy low and put some $ into it or you buy high and trust you won't put any $ into it (although plan b doesn't always pan out that way either).

Best of luck with your decision.

[911T1971]

I always refer to the Juergen Barth / Lothar Boschen "The Porsche Book" which provides chassis and engine number ranges for each of the models and years - it's not perfect but it's a good starter

I just did a scan on eBay but couldn't find a copy at the moment - I'm away from home at the moment, but if you're interested I can post the ISBN when I'm home next week.

HTH

Philip

I still like Peter Morgans book "Original Porsche 911", very nice color pictures (interiors and exteriors), information on all chassis/motor numbers, factory options and color codes, detailed information on all 2.0/2.2/2.4/2.7litre models and up to the 993s.. ( with less information on competition models).
In my opinion still a standard publication for early 911s.

As for maintenance cost, i dont think a T costs really less to "upkeep", it all depends on your driving style, if your car has been restored or/and in original condition.
The difference in $ between T, E, S is more in their value/price, reflecting the fact that E and S models have been less often constructed by the factory, and, of course, have generally a better equipment, stronger motor and updated chassis than T models.
I have great fun with my 1971T, especially after a recent tune-up on its suspension, clutch, brakes and carburators.

[Intheshop]

Mike, what i meant by "cost less to upkeep" I was referring to mostly engine parts and mechanical fuel injection vs carbs... I put Webers on the car about 12 years ago (I consider them stock since they were an option over the Zeniths that year) and they have been lovely... I've never owned a mechanical injection car, but I seem to hear people complain about tune up and rebuild costs more than I have had with the carbs. But I could be wrong.