A sharp chisel works the best. Buy a cheap set and get 1" and 1/4" to get all it off; make sure to keep it sharp with a file. The air tool works great but makes a mess, best done outdside on a lift.
A sharp chisel works the best. Buy a cheap set and get 1" and 1/4" to get all it off; make sure to keep it sharp with a file. The air tool works great but makes a mess, best done outdside on a lift.
Bret Davis
1968 911L
Member
Got done today guys. The process is tedious indeed. I used the torch and scraper method with my full face mask to keep the fumes away...that stuff is very nasty. I used the sand blaster to get to those hard to reach areas. I treated the metal and sprayed two coats of Urathane primer. It is now ready for a top coat. Oh! the cold beers are a must. Cheers.
VINTAGE SPORTSCAR RESTORATIONS INC.
www.vsrestorations.com
Phoenix OREGON
Freddie Hernandez
freddie@vsrestorations.com
(541) 535-3304
www.facebook.com/VintageSportscarRestorations
It doesn't get any easier than this tool. "The Eraser".
http://www.wurthusa.com/project/en/l...th=06.0151.jpg
Tom
Early S Registry #235
rgruppe #111
I agree !!!!Originally Posted by sithot
http://porsche-exclusives.conceptfor...pic.forum?t=56
#rennfrog
Talk about the perfect job for a rotissiere huh?
Paul Schooley
71 911T (RS wanabe w/2.7L juice)
S Reg #863
R Gruppe #330
Any good suggestions on top finishes for the engine bay? I don't care for the OEM thick look. I'm looking for something with texture in black. I have gone through too much work not to make look cherry.
Paul, you are so right, it's time to make one.
VINTAGE SPORTSCAR RESTORATIONS INC.
www.vsrestorations.com
Phoenix OREGON
Freddie Hernandez
freddie@vsrestorations.com
(541) 535-3304
www.facebook.com/VintageSportscarRestorations
No I'm talking about a Snap-On air tool that literally rips the undercoating off of the car but does not harm the metal.Originally Posted by WCB4
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
72T RS
88 Carrera
Tom, you are right about Snap-on on thier markup. I too got into a box at 50% it's large. I will look into both tools. I prefer Snap-on. Let's see what the vendor (Rafael) can do for me on this tool. Even though the torch and scraper do work, I don't think it's the most safest way to work. Thanks for the imput Tom. Cheers!
VINTAGE SPORTSCAR RESTORATIONS INC.
www.vsrestorations.com
Phoenix OREGON
Freddie Hernandez
freddie@vsrestorations.com
(541) 535-3304
www.facebook.com/VintageSportscarRestorations
I have seen this type of air tool sell under genaric names for as little as $100.00. I use Snap-on and Blue-point because the quality is good tools. The salesman will always work for you both on price and warranty problems. And he comes around once a week and will take care of any broken tools. And the best of all is he such a big truck packed full of stuff just waiting to fall into the toolbox
I used the heat gut type stripping because it kept the dust down in the garage. And since I have a vent fan the smoke was not a big deal. I used the air tool to do the seams. And the paint stripper to get in those hard to get places. Everybody has ther unique way of getting the job done. I cant wiat to get the car over to the body shop and get rolling on the rust replacment!
Bill Barnich
R Gruppe Nr.230
Early S Nr.960
71 911T/2.7 Tangarine
73 911?/3.6 work in progress