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Thread: Reviving a long-stored, low mileage '67 911S engine

  1. #1

    Reviving a long-stored, low mileage '67 911S engine

    Hello S Registry,

    I just bought a black '67 911S (a true "S" by the engine and body numbers) from the original owner's widow and son! I have the owners manual and service booklet verifying the original owner. This car has very low miles and still has all of the original paint on the car. The interior is close to mint, and the car is pretty much rust free, being in Southern California since new. I'm very excited about my new project!

    The car was last registered in 1994, but was driven around the block every few months until 2001 when the owner died. The engine has sat unstarted in a garage since then. My plan gathered from various threads to revive the engine:

    1. Pour Marvel Mystery oil into each cylinder and let sit for a few days.

    2. change out all the fuel, get the fuel tank refurbished if rusty, run new fuel lines with new fuel filter.

    3. Remove the 40IDS carburetors and clean thoroughly with carb cleaner (should I partly disassemble them and soak them in Berrymans?)

    4. Change the engine oil. Crank engine over a few times (with spark plugs removed to prevent hydrolock from the MM oil) until I get oil pressure. Replace plugs, run engine for a few minutes, change oil again to make sure no nasty junk remains.

    Am I nuts to try to revive this low-mileage engine without tearing it down and inspecting it? I don't think internal corrosion is an issue given the dry climate and somewhat regular running. I don't quite have the funds for a complete rebuild, so I'm hoping to get by for awhile. What else should i do to revive it? Check chain tensioners?

    I have some questions about cosmetic restoration also...please see the general forum. Thank you for any help.

  2. #2
    Sounds like a plan, and a very good plan at that. I just did the same thing after 15 years of storage on a 71S with no starts at all during that time. I checked the tank and pump first even before attempting to crank it over and found the tank to have 2 cups of rust and debris at the bottom and the fuel pump was frozen. After taking care of those two items, as well as changing out all the flexable fuel ines front and back (they were brittle and cracked with slight pressure), I shot some of the MM oil in each cylinder, about a table spoon, changed the oil, and spun it up without plugs until I saw the needle on the oil pressure guage begin to bounce up and down and built up some pressure, about 10-20 pounds. At this point the fuel had also filled up the lines. I sprayed all the linkages and worked them free. Then I put new plugs in and she fired up almost immediately. And this is a MFI car. Although the engine had been rebuilt a year before it was stored, the car runs beautifully after blowing off all the junk in the exhaust and combustion chamber that collected for all those years. I have to tell you, those Germans were still building them Panzer Tanks back then. Good luck Allan PS check out my site under my 911S and see the how I de-rusted the tank.
    1971 911S with Factory Recaro Sport Seats, 100% original, Bahia Red/Black

    1974 914 2.0 Yellow/Black

    2006 Cayman S Artic Silver/Terrecotta (Pending)


    When you think in you're in full control, you're just not driving fast enough

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    S. F. Bay Area
    Posts
    1,278

    Thumbs up Congrats....great find! I'm jealous.....

    Makes me want to throw rocks at mine...
    Brian
    S Reg #1032

    "I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!"

  4. #4
    Jared Rundell - Registered User JCR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Birmingham, MI
    Posts
    1,063
    Sounds like a good plan to get her running. After that, you will need to evaluate things further. Check the compression and leak down to get a picture of the general engine health. Set your timing, a new set of points and ignition wires will be a very good idea. Check the carb butterfly valves when off the car (hold up to light to make sure there are no gaps when closed). Check the float levels, best with the PMO gauge. Go through the synching and mixture tuning process (good, detailed postings of the process on Pelican). It will need a valve adjustment also and of course, bleed and check the brakes (incl. lines)!

    As far as the carbs, I would first inspect the internals to see how bad the varnish is. If not too bad, I'd lightly soak and clean the main parts and see how she runs. A carb rebuild is a good idea, and not very difficult (take pics as you tear them apart) but I'd do that job after taking care of the other listed things.
    The process of getting back in tune after a full carb rebuild can be tedious. Definitely an art in itself - one that you have to develop a feel for.

    Once you get it running and driving, things will feel better the more miles you put on it it... it's an air cooled Porsche thing, they LOVE to be driven! A lot of people swear by Chevron Techron to clean internals, but I don't have much experience with it.

    Keep us posted!
    Jared
    '73 911S #0793
    '69 912_ #0602
    Early S #0454
    RGruppe #0391

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