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Thread: Rustoration Update – Repeat to yourself….

  1. #1

    Rustoration Update – Repeat to yourself….

    I am not afraid of rust…I am not afraid of rust…POR15 is my friend!...POR15 is my friend!

    Good evening Guys and Gals,

    Thought I would give you an update on what’s happening with my little project. Since last posting I have made some progress. I finished stripping the remaining portions of the interior to assess the condition of the floor pans and strategize on a plan. When I first inspected the car before purchasing it I noticed that the rear floor pan had already been replaced and the front appeared to be in good condition. After stripping the interior I was not happy with the seam sealing job that the PO(s) had done on the rear pan so I striped it out. After doing so I discovered that what I thought to be a good “stitch” job with six inch interval spot welds was actually be held together mostly with the seam sealer that I just removed. I am also not happy with the gap between the floor pan and the outer longitudinal and inner transmission tunnel – a non issue since, in places, the pan can be easily raised and re-welded. At this point I also started poking around at couple of poorly executed patch panels at the lower potion of the rear fire wall below the rear jump seats that were previously hidden by carpet. It seems that the patches are covering some good metal with most of the rot cut out. These are all things that I want to fix before continuing on with the other restoration line items that I’ve previously identified. I spent the rest of the day (Saturday) scraping undercoating both inside and underneath the car. Side note – I don’t think you can claim to be a true porscheophile until you’ve scraped cosmolin undercoating off the underside of a P-car. It's a zin like experience when square inch sections fall off the car when properly probed by your putty knife. Having said this it’s really a sucky job when the stuff actually sticks to rust free metal).

    I’ve purchased a 120V MIG welder and have POR15 on the way to help me address the above issues. Man if I hadn’t done this kind of stuff before on my 356 I’d be really worried right now.

    Today, in the spirit of putting things back on the car, instead of taking them off; I put the set of used door handles that I purchased from Marco on the car (Thanks again Marco – they look great!). Before installing them I took them completely apart, and filed the tumbler pins to work with my keyset. Nothing like the crisp sound of a P-car door closing. This week I’ll continue to clean up, prime, and paint the bits of the car that I’ve taken in house. All in all I estimate that I have about 24 more hours of scraping and grinding before I'm ready to weld and paint the floor pans.

    matt
    Attached Images Attached Images      
    1968 911L

  2. #2
    Good luck with the project.

    After you are done you will get your rust repair badge.
    1970 911S Targa
    On the road again soon.

  3. #3
    Suggestion on prolonging the fun. I just finsihed restoring my 71S and what I did was to use a de-rusting solution on everything I exposed. Even if I could get to it with a sander, 3M scuff disc etc. Even if the metal looks clean, it will enevatably have small pits of rust that will come out to huant you later. I use both Muratic acid or phosporic acid followed up with a washing soda wash. Muratic is very HD and could be bought cheaply in most hardware stores in a dilluted form. It completely eats all the rust away leaving only the good metal. Phosphoric acid is harder to get cheaply, but many restoration supply houses offer it in its name brand products like Oxysol by Eastwood. I like the Phosphoric as it leaves a phosphoric coating that also protects the metal. Both must be washed off with washing soda to neutralize the acid. Washing soda is like baking soda, but sold as a detergent in grocery stores and cleans up better. The pedal box area would be great place to start, it'll get out all the rust, and then cover in POR 15, but use the "silver" POR 15, it has more metal in the product and seals better against rust than the black version. Good luck Allan
    1971 911S with Factory Recaro Sport Seats, 100% original, Bahia Red/Black

    1974 914 2.0 Yellow/Black

    2006 Cayman S Artic Silver/Terrecotta (Pending)


    When you think in you're in full control, you're just not driving fast enough

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Sonoma, CA
    Posts
    376

    It can be done.....

    Two years, and some amazing work by the Emory's

    johnt
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  5. #5
    Peter Kane

    '72 911S Targa
    Message Board Co-Moderator - Early 911S Registry #100

  6. #6

    Lotus

    Dam! That little Lotus brings back great memories of high school. I went from that little twin cam twin Webber to a 69 Camaro with a 369 four speed and a big Holley . Two totaly diffrent rides. Had a Cosworth Vega in the late 70's. Had all the same mods that Car and Driver did to thier little Cosworth. Something like 150 horse. Shame they used the Vega because even with the decals the car got little respect. Oh well. Sorry about the off topic!
    Regards Bill
    Bill Barnich
    R Gruppe Nr.230
    Early S Nr.960
    71 911T/2.7 Tangarine
    73 911?/3.6 work in progress

  7. #7
    Yup..."that" is the car above....no worries...I'll hopefully have it on the road in a couple of months in better shape!
    1968 911L

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