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Thread: Stripping, dipping and Ecoating

  1. #1

    Stripping, dipping and Ecoating

    I am not sure if this has been covered here before, I did a search but didn't find anything so thought I should share my experience with these processes.

    We had previously sand blasted a couple of shells, but this doesn't remove the underbody sealer which means several days with a heat gun, scraper and loads of graft. I then found a company that could remove the sealer and paint by heating the shell in an oven. This requires the shell to be stripped of every single part, including the loom. One other problem arises with LWB cars, the heater silencer in the sill (rocker) has plastic ends which get destroyed in the oven. SWB cars have a steel silencer so there is no problem. The solution is to cut off the outer and inner sills and remove the silencer, not a problem with the usual full restoration as these are invariably in need of replacement anyway, but I need to find a solution for shells that don't need the fully monty, possibly opening up the rocker from the passenger compartment, removing the silencer, then welding it back afterwards.

    The oven process leaves the shell bare and unprotected. The next process can be carried out immediately or after any welding work. The steel is passivated by immersing the shell in an alkaline solution for 3 days to disolve away any oxidation. This process leaves the steel as clean and shiny as the day it was made.



    The shell must then be protected immediately by an Ecoat, an electrophoretically applied zinc phosphate.





    This shell then underwent the full restoration treatment with new sills, inner wings etc. etc.



    The shell that we are working on at the moment has only been through the oven process, we will get it passivated and ecoated after the welding work, replacing the heater silencers with flexible ducting so that they don't get clogged up with the Ecoat immersion.

    One major problem that must not go unmentioned is the way the shell distorts in the oven due to the temperatures used. The door aperture lozenges back unless it is braced.
    Nick Moss - Early 911S #476 - RGruppe #318 - early911.co.uk

  2. #2
    Very impressive. Should be good for another 30+ rust free years.
    '73.5T -- ST replica project
    Member #1045

  3. #3
    Sandblasting/baking (minor rust repairs) and then Ecoating, if the tub was delivered to you clean of parts. How much would a job like this cost approx?

    John
    Early 911S Registry #931
    --------------------------------
    1971 911 2.2S Coupe Albert Blue
    1971 911 2.2T Coupe Tangerine
    2005 997 C2S Coupe special 1965 slate grey
    1978 911 3.0 SC Targa Silver w/chrome trim

  4. #4
    Senior Member
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    Acid dipping is around 2000$US, including neutralization solution ; It give very good results ; Does this way is better, or cheaper ?? I Don't know...
    JD

  5. #5
    Senior Member 911scfanatic's Avatar
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    Like Nick pointed out, you lose your heater silencer unless you tear into the longitudinals. Doesn't seem like the best option for that reason.
    Bill G.

    1968 911 Ossi Blue coupe...full restoration in process
    Done: Engine; transmission; suspension; gauges; wheels; rust repair & primer; brakes; paint
    In progress: electrical; the tedious, endless, horrible fastener sorting/plating
    EarlyS #718 | RGruppe #437

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Zithlord
    Sandblasting/baking (minor rust repairs) and then Ecoating, if the tub was delivered to you clean of parts. How much would a job like this cost approx?

    John
    The charge for oven/dip/ecoat is arount £2K, welding work on top. I have yet to find anyone in the UK that can acid dip to remove the paint/sealer. What does this do to the heater silencers?
    Nick Moss - Early 911S #476 - RGruppe #318 - early911.co.uk

  7. #7
    Senior Member 911scfanatic's Avatar
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    My understanding in it eats them for lunch. I believe short wheel base cars have the metal ones, so no worries there.
    Bill G.

    1968 911 Ossi Blue coupe...full restoration in process
    Done: Engine; transmission; suspension; gauges; wheels; rust repair & primer; brakes; paint
    In progress: electrical; the tedious, endless, horrible fastener sorting/plating
    EarlyS #718 | RGruppe #437

  8. #8
    Senior Member platas's Avatar
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    i have a question on powder coating, how is it done, so i can explain the paint guy her how to do it. Its not a practice at all here in spain.

  9. #9
    My '70 is just about done at the stipper/blaster. I checked on it today. These guys dip the doors, hood, fenders and engine lid. They blast the body shell either with glass, or sand, depending on the strength metal in the area they are hitting. They are removing just about every bit of undercoating on the car, inside and out. The only stuff I'll have to take off manually is in areas they are concerned about distorting the metal. The original estimate was for $1200. but we'll see where it ends up. The process appears to be very time consuming.
    Tom F.

    '67 911S Slate Gray
    '70 911T 2.8 hotrod (in progress)
    '92 964

    #736

  10. #10
    Tom

    It would be interesting to find out what your guys are using in terms of media. Its not the hardness of the sealer that's the problem, but the softness, as it absorbs the energy of the fast moving media.

    Platas, I'm not sure that you can carry out powder coating without all the equipment and knowledge. There was a thread on Pelican a few years ago about PCing 911 shells in the US carried out by Autometrics. A far as I know no one does it in the UK.

    Nick Moss - Early 911S #476 - RGruppe #318 - early911.co.uk

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