Trick to installing headlights?

[merbesfield]

What is the trick to installing headlights in my 66 Porsche. I have a new gasket and the bucket is really tight. Got it installed, but not sure it's correct or well seated. Also, could not figure out how to install the new HL bucket screw I got from Eric with the small rubber spacer he includes. I understand the reason for it, but getting it in? Thanks Mark

[VintageExcellen]

THere are 2 types of headlight seals - thin and thick. Porsche parts guys only supply the thicker one, International Mercantile supplys the thin one which is supposed to be for early cars however many early cars have had the headlight bucket replaced or changed so the thicker seal could be needed if that is so. Stock 66 headlight buckets that have not been messed with should take the thin seal.

The rubber spacer is not for the retaining screw as a spacer, it is meant to replace the receptacle for the adjustment hook, I think if I am talking about the same part.

[merbesfield]

THere are 2 types of headlight seals - thin and thick. Porsche parts guys only supply the thicker one, International Mercantile supplys the thin one which is supposed to be for early cars however many early cars have had the headlight bucket replaced or changed so the thicker seal could be needed if that is so. Stock 66 headlight buckets that have not been messed with should take the thin seal.

The rubber spacer is not for the retaining screw as a spacer, it is meant to replace the receptacle for the adjustment hook, I think if I am talking about the same part.

Well this must be the "TRICK" using the correct seal. I bought my HL seal from another supplier and it is the thick variety. So I need a thinner seal and HL should seat well. Thanks.

[37yrold911]

On LWB cars there is a particular orientation for the sealing ring, but I forget what it is...

An important trick is to use some big zip ties to hold in the very expensive and NLA H1s in case they pop loose.

Porsche did a lousy job of design on the headlight retention.

[VintageExcellen]

The design for holding the headlights in is not that lousy, in the long run this type of design does not hold up to fender benders/rust/bad bodywork. It is very important to fit the headlights you are going to use before the car is painted. If the car is virgin then the lights usually go right on and stay on. If the headlight bucket has been replaced then there is a good chance that the light will not pop over the lip or the lip is not the right shape to hold the light in place or there could be a gap.

And yes what a pain, balancing expensive H1 headlights over the ground as you hope they fit in place. Then drive the car and hope they never come loose!

[Richardnew]

It's a lousy design. It never worked. When I go track day i always tape the headlight in place with the stupid blue tape. Back in the day the rally guys would build a little bracket for holding the trim ring to the fender.

I actually fabricated some brackets for my car and then couldn't bring myself to drill holes in the fender and trim rings. Oh well.

Richard Newton
Car Tech Stuff

[jameshtaylor]

A few years back I spent a good deal of time and money restoring two older headlights to use on my 73. I proudly drove off to an event somewhere and arrived to find that one headlight, despite meticulous care in mounting it, had come loose somewhere and bounced into a ditch. Never heard a thing. I agree, the mounting arrangement is second class. Do be absolutely sure the darn thing is firmly attached before putting it to the test. The zip tie idea sounds like a good one.

[merbesfield]

What do you zip tie to? Richanew, I'm with you. Seen those tabs on race cars, but not on this street car, unless I was restoring a period race car.

[edmayo]

I agree, rally cars take such a beating that you're lucky the fender doesn't fall off! But as a general rule the fit and gap between the bucket and fender is crucial as Mark has said. I have actually had to carve out excess paint and bondo on freshly done cars with x-acto knives and 1/8th" die- grinders because the body shop didn't know any better, then the car comes to me when the headlight keeps falling out, instead of back to the body shop! The head light ring MUST fit over the tab at the top of the bucket first! Then the rest of the ring must be pushed by hand (no hammers allowed here) until the bottom slips over the bottom of the bucket,,,,,then the next crucial part is the ANGLE of the threaded tab the retention screw goes into. If angled correctly it will pull the headlight housing down slightly as the screw is tightened,,,,and I mean the proper 5mm thread machine screw,,,,,NOT the big sheet metal screws I see used because the body shop didn't weld in a new captive nut. All of this is dependent on the clearance of the rubber seal and the gap to the headlight ring.

[merbesfield]

And apparently there are two different seals? The one I received from Sierra Madre looked right to me, but have not seen one in a while. It was flat on the backside with a small ridge on the front. It did conflict with the trim ring at the top by keeping it from easily seating into the tab Ed mentioned. I did a little trimming with a razor blade and it helped. If there is in fact a thinner flat seal I would think that would make it easier too.