what to put on stripped body sheetmetal to prevent rust ?

[southbay356]

Hi

my friend needs to take his 72 911 out of the body shop it been in for 4 years , nothing is getting done and it looks like they will go out of business soon ,

anyway sections of the body were stripped of the paint years ago and patch panels made from flat sheetmetal , that work was done pretty good , but the metalman got caught by INS and is gone ,
so the car has been sitting in the shop , lots of it bare metal , but the shop is dry so it did not rust, coated with bondo dust !

When we go and get the 911 its going to be more of a commando raid ,
bring the trailer , a couple of friends and grab the car and the parts,
and get out of there before it gets ugly, he has been paid more than the work he has done and has not worked on it for 2 years.

Problem is it will now be stored outside for awhile , covered of course ,
so what can we put over the bare metal, that will not hurt the paint prep later , or make more work for the next bodyshop ?

will metal prep work , I guess its acid based ?
or spray it with spray can paint ?
any other quick product we can do without a compressor ?

thanks for your advise

Dave

[raspy2point2]

Do not leave it outside -- bear metal will still rust under a cover!

[nick-moss]

By metal prep I gueass you mean etch primer, this does not seal the surface and will not protect it against corrosion. Do not put it outside unless you are prepared to derust it again at a later stage. One way of doing this would be to get it pickled and Ecoated before you start the later work.

[TWork]

Anything you put on the metal that's quick is probaby going to have to come off in preparation for actual quality paint. That said, if it were my car and I had no option but to store it outside, I'd buy some rattle cans of epoxy primer just to keep the rust to a minimum. No affiliation, but www.autobodydepot.com has a pretty good catalog and decent prices.

[southbay356]

I would rather not leave it outside but thats what has to be done in the short term ,

I was just trying to do the best good and the least damage

So right now I will try and cover it with non porous primer and hope for the best,

Dave

[911quest]

Remember most primers absorb moisture

[WCB4]

If just applying a temperary coating that might or might not be removed later, you would be better off using a product like POR-15 or Eastwoods Encapsulator. The products are rust sealers but can be used as a pre primer or primer. Try and keep dry and out of ultraviolate rays. And unless rust starts forming there will be no need to remove in the furture. The big down fall is the cost, however it could be a savings later in not needing to restrip and reworking. Just My $.02 worth.
Bill

[dvkk]

Rather than leaving it outside, take it straight over to another body shop and get them to properly blow some primer on it. If you dump a case of spray can primer or paint on it, you are just increasing the cost later by creating work needed to remove that crap.

[Zeke]

A well known 356 restoration shop here in Long Beach has cars in bare metal for months at a time. Maybe he will share his secret as he is a member here as well. To the best of my knowledge, he wipes them down weekly with Ospho. They stay nice and bright in all weather. The shop I'm referring to is less than 20 blocks from the ocean and the humidity here is pretty moist a lot of the time. I've never noticed a heater in the back shop, mostly wide open doors during business hours.

I agree with not putting any paint on the body that will just have to come off later. Keep it in bare metal and get to work!

[classic]

Southbay,

I've had great success with Picklex20 my tub has been bare for nearly 6 months, and not a sign of surface rust.

I live within 200M of the ocean so the salt spray test has been conducted.

The only thing with this stuff is you can't use an etch primer. epoxy is recommended.

And you can't get it wet, for obvious reasons.