Some help with binding crank window please.

[ulrichd]

Car is a 70T with a driver side window that will go up fine but when I try to crank it down it seems the forward edge of the glass dips down slightly. When I put pressure on the trailing edge while cranking down it's ok.

I have the door cover completely off, but I know nothing about the inner workings of a window. I don't see any obstructions in the grooves. Can someone point me in the right direction?

Thanks.

Ulrich

[Rich Lambert]

Check that the bottom of the window glass in stuck tight in the bracket. Roll it half way up and pull up on the glass. If the window comes loose from the rear of the bracket it will exhibit the problem you describe. If it is loose, you might be able to just push it back down into position.

A been there, done that tip...If you pull the window glass out of the bracket, make sure it's positioned the same when you put it back in.

You might also look at the sliders that go into the bracket slots. If they're broken or incorrectly aligned that might cause some slop in the system.

[Neunelfer]

I agree with Rich here. The window rests in a tray. Below that are some nylon rollers that slide in the tracks. Check to see that the window is tight in the tray and that years of inside the door grundge hasn't build up on that front track.

[ulrichd]

Thanks for the responses. The window looks to be mounted solidly in the tray. My next step was going to be removal of the window fame and replacing the felt but it looks as if the PO has stripped the window frame bolt on the lower trailing edge of the door. I look to be royally scrxxxed.

Ulrich

[Rich Lambert]

I hate PO's. Maybe try a little Syl-Glide (sp?) on the window felt.

[ulrichd]

I'll give it a shot. The good news is, with the door covers off I can finally change out my door stops. Little tired of hearing "eeeek-pop" every time I open my doors.

Ulrich

[911pcars]

Thanks for the responses. The window looks to be mounted solidly in the tray. My next step was going to be removal of the window fame and replacing the felt but it looks as if the PO has stripped the window frame bolt on the lower trailing edge of the door. I look to be royally scrxxxed.

Ulrich

All is not lost. You can carefully center-punch, then drill the fastener with a drill bit large enough to remove the socket head. There's even a chance a left-handed drill will catch the metal and remove the fastener as well.

Once the door frame is on the bench, it'll be a lot easier to remove the bolt remains and/or repair the threaded hole. A Helicoil would be appropriate here if in fact the thread is stripped and not just a rounded hex socket.

Check the window regulator pivot pin (middle of the concentric helper spring). If the spring is in an early failure stage, the window will be difficult to operate - more so in the lift direction. If that's the case, the other door window will soon follow.

Sherwood

[Neil '67 911S]

I've replaced the rigid window channel felt in three SWB cars and always have the same problem: the window jams in the channel so tightly that I'm concerned about the window winder breaking.

As I recall, the factory parts manual shows that there are two different channels. The top and rear share one parts number and the front has the second part number. Stoddard only sells the rear/top piece now, which when installed in the forward channel, protrudes rearward much more than the OEM channel did, perhaps by as much as 1/4". The body shop guy at Stoddard swears that he's been using only the rear/top channel for 25 years in all three positioins and has never had this problem. I first ran into this problem nearly 30 years ago.

I strip the old channel out, scrape the inside of the window frame down to get the last bits and pieces of the old channel out. I then lay in a thin coat of rubber cement in the frame. The back and sides of new channel gets a thin coating of rubber cement too and then it's installed after both surfaces have dried for 10 min or so. The rubber cement came from Stoddard.

At $50 per rigid window channel, a car needs $300 worth for doors, only to have this jamming outcome. Of course, removing the new channel is impossible without ruining it. There are probably those of you who suggest using the soft channel in the front (because the Stoddard catalogue says to) but is that really how those of you in the know actually deal with very annoying problem?

Many thanks,

- Neil
'67 911S (Ol' Ivory & the Rust Bucket)