R Engine Lid Hinges

[Paul Schooley]

Can somebody offer up a bit of advice on installing the R hinges I got? Installing them to the body of the car is the easy part. What concerns me is how they attach to the engine lid. It's not exactly flat steel (or glass) in the area where the three screws and nuts per hinge go. I've got a steel engine lid and a ducktail. My intention is to use the steel lid. As best as I can tell I should probably cut out the underside, raised area and perhaps mig weld in some flat sheet metal there.

I could really use a couple pictures up close and personal of how the hinges are installed on the backside of the engine lid. Steel or glass, there appears to be a raised area between the outer skin of the lid and the underneath side. I suspect I'm on the right path with the cut and weld thing but could sure use some advice before I go into surgery.

Thanks in advance.....

[Paul Schooley]

Yikes...all those R hinges floating around out there and nobody knows how they attach to the underside of the engine lid? Maybe I better post a photo of what I'm trying to ask about?

[Zithlord]

Hi Paul

Not sure if this will help you, but there are some pictures showing some different hinges.

http://www.early911sregistry.org/for...ght=hinges+lid

John

[rvanderpyl]

They don't attach to the underside. They attach to the top.

[Paul Schooley]

Ya, I know that they mount to the top of the lid. Thanks for that link too. I think I got it figured out. My thanks to Rolly.

[Ernie W]

hinge details, both are mounted to a fiberglass R lid.

[Paul Schooley]

Thanks Ernie,
I noticed on the original 'glass R decklids the hinges fit very nicely in that flat area underneath. Due to budget restraints I gotta use a steel lid at this time in which the area of the third screw has a separation between the outer skin and the inner skin. I had this brain phart that I should either try to hammer the steel flat there (ya know how that will end up... ) or cut it out slightly. I was concerned about stresses there but in reality once the engine lid's been flipped over onto the rear window there is no stress on the lid.
Thanks fellas, I'll post some pics of what I'm doing shortly. The lid's out getting some fresh black paint.

[ttweed]

...the area of the third screw has a separation between the outer skin and the inner skin.

Paul-
I think it would be plenty strong to use a self-tapping sheetmetal screw for the 3rd "blind" hole, and thru-bolts for the other two. As long as you match the heads, it will not be apparent from the top when the lid is closed.

TT

[JohnT]

Is the distance between the two hinges. Mine got mounted a little too far apart. We thought we'd get better support (less twisting) for the aluminum lid during opening and closing. The result on my car is that the distance between the hood and rear deck of the car is too close (remember both surfaces are convex so the get closer together when the hood is opened) at the center when the hood is open. When I open my hood, I must 1) get a clean rag between the hood and rear deck at the center of the car and 2) insert a roll of the Blue paper towels (must be blue - it matches the paint!) between the window and hood to limit the over center travel. Wish I could share a picture, but somehow never felt like photoing my errors... I'd run out of film very quickly.

cheers

johnt

[Ernie W]

R style hinges mounted to a metal lid, this lid was aluminum.