Any tips on how to disconnect the axles from the gearbox? I have been
under the car with a 6mm hex T key but I can't seem to get them to
release, they're on real tight.
andy
Any tips on how to disconnect the axles from the gearbox? I have been
under the car with a 6mm hex T key but I can't seem to get them to
release, they're on real tight.
andy
67S in pieces
EarlyS: 1358
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
One of two ways I use to do it. Use the E-brake to hold the rear wheel from turning or if you have vented rear rotors use screw driver in the cooling slots of the rotor to hold the rear axle from turning. The most important thing is to use a quality 6mm allen socket and a long handle wratchet so you can get some leverage.
One more tip is to use hammer to tap the socket into the bolt cause they get filled with crud and if you don't get it in there deep enough it will round out the allen head of the bolt.
Tony Proasi
52 split window coupe
1 or 2 roll pins keep it in there firm however if they have been there for a while
you will need some brute force, they are crudy stuck.
try using a chisel at an angle on the joint and tap outward, they are real tough to separate initially but with perseverance they will release/
Richard aka le Zookeeper
early reg #1128
I used a hex bit and a 3/8 drive ratchet handle to get better leverage on those suckers. A T handle toll does have the nads for this job. They can be tough, but you shouldn't have that much of a problem getting them out. I alos agree ith the idea of using a hammer to be sure the hex is deep into the bolt head. Those are a bugger if they are stripped out.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
1967 911S Coupe
1991 944S2 Coupe
Past projects:
1967 912 Coupe
1969 911T Coupe
1985.5 944 SR Coupe
Not sure if they are all this way, but on my 70, the thread of the allen bolts are exposed on the backside of the drive flange. Some penetrating fluid will go a long way here.
Like Quest said, make sure the allen bolt head is clean before leaning on that wrench
Renn-Spot - Cars & parts For Sale - http://renn-spot.blogspot.com/
1970 911"S" - Black (originally silver)
1974 911"S" - Silver
1973 911"T" - Bahia Red - Now Sold
10 sec 67 VW
Early "S" Registry #439
I just completed this work on my 69. Fortunately, a gorilla was not the last one to tighten these bolts and they came loose fairly easily. They were still extremely tight, but with the E-brake on and the car in gear, I was able to get enough leverage to loosen them. Might take a couple of good "shoves" - just hang on the heat exchanger for leverage. Dave's suggestion about the penetrating oil is a great idea as mine were open in the back also. Make sure you work the gasket out completely, so you have some room to get a big screw driver inbetween the CV and the flange. Gently pry CV away from the flange working your way around so you don't booger up any of the surfaces. Should come apart pretty easily.
Have fun cleaning the joint up and putting it back on the car. It is pretty messy. The CV will come apart so you can clean it more easily. If you leave it together it takes at least 6X as long. Don't ask me how I know. Also, having a second person available to support the axle while you add the new grease is helpful and keeps you from getting that crap all over the place.
Good luck!
Scott H.
1969 Coupe LtWt
1973.5 911T
Worked it out. Apply rattle gun.
andy
67S in pieces
EarlyS: 1358
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Be sure to mark inner and outer portions of axle... as well as the position of all the races BEFORE DISASSEMBLY , cleaning and reassembly.
later, JON
ORE67S
67 911S-SILVER
65 356SC COUPE -SOLD
73 914 2.0 YELLOW [74K]
74 914 1.8 WHITE