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Thread: Bilstein Rear Shocks Help?

  1. #1
    Senior Member t6dpilot's Avatar
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    Unhappy Bilstein Rear Shocks Help?

    This may be a really dumb question with a simple solution (hope so). I just installed the yellow Bilstein HD rear shocks and put the car back on its wheels. The car now sits about 1+" higher than when I started. It is basically up to US ride height - not good. I bounced the rear slightly to help the shocks settle and I hear the upper shock housings clanging on the lower shock housing - great.

    What the heck is going on here? This is a very simple install, so why am I having this problem? Did I not tighten the to shock mount enough? There are 5 or 6 threads showing above the nylock nut. I am really confused as to why the housings are clanging and my car now rides so high. I know they are new shocks, but raising ride height over an inch - no way.

    A little help from those that have been there would be appreciated. Thanks.
    Scott H.
    1969 Coupe LtWt
    1973.5 911T

  2. #2
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    If you had ordinary shocks in there, then replaced them with gas shocks, the change in ride height is quite normal. The gas shocks are under pressure, and this carries some of the load that the springs (torsion bars) normally carry. Thus the rear has more support, and it rises up.
    Porsche Historian, contact for Kardex & CoA-type Reports
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  3. #3
    Senior Member t6dpilot's Avatar
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    Actually, I think I pulled out what appear to be the original Koni red shocks. Kinda cool since they still had the original Koni stickers on the upper housing. I am told that you can rebuild these, so that may be the final route I will end up taking down the road.

    So do I need to live with a 25-1/2" ride height now or will these settle any? I guess if I have to live with it, then the front's gotta come up and I will go to 185/70 V-reds. That was not my plan... Still does not solve that dang clanging problem though. What the heck is up with that?
    Scott H.
    1969 Coupe LtWt
    1973.5 911T

  4. #4
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    Why not just re-index the rear torsion bars to lower the rear?
    The clanging is a warning something is not put together correctly; but I have no clue as to what.
    Porsche Historian, contact for Kardex & CoA-type Reports
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    Researching Paint codes and Engine Build numbers

  5. #5
    Sport Seats will bring the rear end down.

    Tom
    Early S Registry #235
    rgruppe #111

  6. #6
    I'd check that the housing covers aren't binding up on the "tunnel" and that you've got the bushings (top and bottom) correctly oriented and in place.
    Not to second guess you Scott, but I would have stuck with a non-gas shock.
    Yep; the Konis can be rebuilt.
    Bump stops?

    Good luck!



    Tom
    Early S Registry #235
    rgruppe #111

  7. #7
    Senior Member John Z Goriup's Avatar
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    Scott,

    is it possible that you made other changes to the rear suspension of your car (if it's the '71 you're talking about).....such as changing the rear arms to later alum. trailing arms. If you have, then it's entirely feasible that having added gas Bilsteins, the dreaded interference problem between upper shock and crossmember tunnel are finally rearing their head. It's a very common occurence on '70 & '71 year cars and needs to be addressed, or it will drive you to drink.

    No shortage of advice on previous posts in this forum on how to cure that one.....but not a lot of agreement on how to do it best, I'm afraid.

    As far as getting the ass end back down to where it ought to be,...just re-index the T-bars and re-align the raer suspension.
    Before it became Ruprecht, my Porsche was a '70 911 T



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  8. #8
    Senior Member Minoclan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Z Goriup View Post
    Scott,

    is it possible that you made other changes to the rear suspension of your car (if it's the '71 you're talking about).....such as changing the rear arms to later alum. trailing arms. If you have, then it's entirely feasible that having added gas Bilsteins, the dreaded interference problem between upper shock and crossmember tunnel are finally rearing their head. It's a very common occurence on '70 & '71 year cars and needs to be addressed, or it will drive you to drink.

    No shortage of advice on previous posts in this forum on how to cure that one.....but not a lot of agreement on how to do it best, I'm afraid.

    As far as getting the ass end back down to where it ought to be,...just re-index the T-bars and re-align the raer suspension.
    John, I have the same problem with my 70 and did a search. Nothing came up. Can you please tell me what to search?
    2007 GT3
    1999 996 Track RAT
    1970 911 T Tangerine

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  9. #9
    It has been done successfully. Here is a shot of the ex-Cole Scrogham 911R "replica, tribute, etc. etc.".

    Tom
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  10. #10
    You can run an inverted damper, at least with coil-over conversions. See the bottom of this page: http://www.rebelracingproducts.com/S.../Steering.html

    The "custom" Bilstein dampers are what you need. "gas adjustable" should actually say "gas pressurized", as these are not adjustable as are the similar parts below them.
    1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened
    Early 911S Registry Member #425

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