switched from Hagerty to Chubb

[66S]

Ive used J.C. Taylor for my vintage insurance since the 80s and am quite happy with them. Be careful with State Farm vintage insurance. They have a habit of writing a vintage policy, taking the premium and then changing the policy classification to a normal policy with a much higher premium, explaining that that 356 or Abarth or whatever is not a collector car and doesnt qualify. They usually wont even admit they have a vintage program.

[CurtEgerer]

What I like about Hagerty (besides being a Michigan company .... gotta support the home team!) is collector cars are their only business. No distractions. Customer service is spectacular. I got stopped at an armed guard booth to a military base during the Targa California one year. These guys don't F around. They weren't happy with my paper work and my 1971 Michigan license plate and they would not allow me to enter (we needed to cut through the base to get to another road). I called Hagerty and they in turn called the armed guard at the booth, explained the Michigan vintage license plate law and then faxed the required paperwork and I was on my way within 10-15 minutes

BTW: they've got a Lunar Rover sitting in their lobby at headquarters right now.

[Vintage Racer]

Do all companies distinguish between the two?

There is "Agreed Value" and "Stated Value". My street cars have "ACV" coverage (actual cash value).

Here: Stated vs. Agreed Value: The Trap Owners Must Learn to Avoid
http://www.grandsportregistry.com/CI...reed_Value.pdf

I did multiple cars on my last quote and there was an "other than collision" primium which I understood to be "liability".

Olin, "Other than collision" is a property damage term for Comp coverage. Generally, Collision covers you when your car is moving. It repairs your car when you hit something. Comp (Comprehensive coverage) protects your car when it isn't moving (theft, hail damage, vandalism, wind..).

Liability is a two part coverage that pays, on your behalf, when you hit someone else. The first part is "Bodily Injury". That pays the medical bills of the guy you hit. The second is "Property Damage". That pays the guy for his car (or house) that you just hit. Buy the highest limit and then buy a personal liability "umbrella" policy (you could hit a mini-van full of children).

"U" coverages are for Uninsured (or under-insured) accidents (aka, UM). That pays you if anyone slams into you and are not insured or "underinsured". I always set the UM-PD coverage at the worth of my car (since they didn't have it, and I want my company to fix my car).

I am sure that Hagerty is a major player. I just haven't read their contract (anyone have a link?). Hagerty bought the "Cars That Matter" collector car price guide a couple of years ago. It's now called the "Hagerty's Cars That Matter" guide.

Here:
http://www.carsthatmatter.com/

[orange911]

I just got a favorable estimate from Heacock, but in the discussion on limits, I found out that NC limits coverage on spare parts to $250. Sounded pretty strange that a state would set limits for insurance coverage on spare parts, go figure. Not sure if this is the same case for other states, but the maximum coverage I believe is $1000.

But what you should get out of this post is that Heacock is set up to classify things like tool kits and possibly spare wheel as "Spare Parts". This could be a deal breaker for me since I would be restricted to $250 for a potential $800 - 900 replacement tool kit. Add in a spare tire on a 7r rim or deep 6 and you are really left out.

I have requested the amendment to the policy to cover items that could be delivered with the car from the factory. (118's, nudge bar, and other period accessories). Will find out what they say and post back here.

Olin

[reed]

I'll add my recent experience with Grundy to this thread. I've been with them on and off for many years but just had my first claim. Here's the story.

A couple of weeks ago, on a quiet morning outside Chestnut Hill, I was minding my own business, enjoying the drive when another driver just pulls out of a side street and t-bones me. Nice guy, just clueless. My car, an E28 M5, was hit pretty hard but still drivable. By the time I got home, the other driver's insurance company had left a message on my answering machine accepting liability for the accident. Good news I thought. Great news until two days later when they tell me their insured has a $5,000 policy limit. Is that legal, I ask the rep. and myself. Evidently in the state of Pennsylvania. And the best part is that his insurance will pay to have his car repaired, just not mine.

So, I call Philadelphia Insurance Company, Grundy's carrier of choice for my policy. After a brief chat with the claims adjuster, they agree to cover the damage under my underinsured motorist coverage and promise to send out an appraiser to assess the damage. Here comes the ugly part I fear.

Well, the appraiser comes and asks where I want the car repaired. I tell him Karosserie--probably the best bodyshop in the Phila. area-- and wait for his protest. No problem he says.

The next day he calls to tell me that the repair cost will make this close to a total loss, and asks which way I want to go. After some internal debate, I decide it probably is best that I write this car off and try to find another one.

The good in all of this is that they are paying the agreed value of the car. They even offered me the salvage for $3,500. I thought about buying it for two minutes, but my wife quickly shot that down. Something about being too much to take. For some reason the idea of transplanting a 260 hp motor into something the size of a gokart didn't excite her as much as it does me. Neither did the idea of me learning welding and frame straightening techniques in the driveway. Oh well.

All in all, a totally painless experience which took less than two weeks from start to finish. They even told me that since the accident was not my fault, this claim would not "count" against me.

[curtisaa]

Since Ray started this thread, I too have contacted the Chubb Co. They are really good with CS, and they are very prompt with quotes and POI cards.

I now have 6 cars, all Porsches , with them at a nice savings. Previously I was with AAA, here in SoCal. They are really a PITA to do classic car insurance with:

You need to drive the car to their location, wait for an agent to come outside to inspect the car ( 10-30 minutes), they take pics, then they tell you that they will send you a letter within 2 weeks.

Chubb is very much like Hagerty, which I think like Curt mentions, is very good. However, Chubb doen NOT have all the fine print that restricts the use of the car and they are NOT old hens on the amount of miles per/year. It's based on agreed value, like Hagerty. I think the two companies are both really good values with the edge going to Chubb.

All we needed to do was send 3-4 pics of the cars with VIN #'s. The agent we used was GREAT ! Prices, policies, POI cards...perfect.

Thanks Ray !

[69Sman]

Curt, can you please PM me the agent's name and contact info?

[RC70SCoupe]

The Chubb Rep who I used is:

Lisa Sivolella
lsivolella@chubb.com
(908) 572 2351

Give her a call, it may be worth your while

[tomkirkcis]

Most Home owners policies pay for auto parts as long as they are not "IN or UPON the vehicle" The items on the shelf should be covered. I never ever store spare parts in my project cars, always on the shelf. That may be why the State step in, so the policies do not overlap, and the customer does not pay premium twice.

Tom

[dave29]

Has anyone had a claim with Chubb? What was your experience? Good service?

I'd rather pay more and know i'll be taken care of when I need it.